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Linggo, Disyembre 18, 2016

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Linggo, Nobyembre 6, 2016

Easy model railroad photography videoing with your smart phone


All the the photos I put on this blog are from my camera on my I-phone 4.  Sometimes they are quick grap ones and sometimes thay are a little more involved.  I do have a regular camera but who uses thoes these days?  I probably will ugrade in a few months but this is how I get good pics easily.
This is mainly for I phone 4's:

First, get to the camera mode and make sure your flash is off and not on auto.
On the the left side of the screen, there is a HDR mode that is usually off.  Turn it on.  The HDR mode is a mini image stacking item on your phone.  Which improves the overall picture.  With this HDR mode, You need to have a steady phone for this to work well.  We will need something to "hold" the camera.  This is where the clamp showed below comes in handy.
This type of small clamp can be bought at Home Depot or any hardware store for a buck or two.  It holds the phone upright and still for pics and video.   
As you can see, the end has electrical tape on it.  This prevents shorting out the layout when it touches the tracks.  Yes, it happened to me.  The clamp is small and can be laid almost anywhere.  This clamp is ideal for video and I use it all the time for my You Tube videos.


When the picture is taken in HDR mode, there will be 2 pics.  The first one is regular and the second will have HDR on it.  Use the HDR one and erase the other pic.
Examples:

Non-HDR mode:  Bright light overhead and some blurriness.  

HDR mode:  overhead light not as bad and the vegetation is sharper.
 The above pics are not ideal but a good demonstration for what I needed.  Hopes this helps you get some better pics on your layout or in everyday life!



Linggo, Oktubre 16, 2016

My Day with The Empress by Robby Part 1


My dad came to tell me (morning of July 5/12) that instead of going to my Nana's with my sister for the day, I will be coming to work with him and my mum at Chinook & Hobby West, our hobby store.

I usually only get to go to the store to help my parents on Fridays so I was super excited to get an extra day at the store.
This is me and my Dad testing a locomotive
On our way to the store Daddy and I stopped at Walmart where he bought me a pair of steel toed work boots." I was very confused and asked him where we were going that I needed these boots? He said 'Its a surprise, you have to wait until 3:30 this afternoon'.

I am 9 years old I am not good at waiting for surprises; back at the store I asked my mum "where is Daddy taking me today?", and mum said 'I'm not sure, Daddy has a surprise for you', aaahhhhh this is driving me crazy.

After I had my crazy moment I went to go help Dad and Jesse sort out Diecast cars for the North and South stores.  After sorting, I had lunch and after lunch Daddy said 'Do you want to know where we're going today - just you and me?' I said "yes, yes, yes please!"

He said 'We're going to the CP Rail Yards to see #2816 and that's all I'm going to tell you right now'.  I was so excited I nearly exploded!  Then we talked again about what time we were going and Jesse was eavesdropping on what Daddy was telling me, Jesse said "So where are you going?" and Dad said "Well, we kinda got an invitation to see 'The Empress' at the CP Rail Yards." And Jesse said how lucky we are and asked if we could take him. Dad said the invitation was just for Dad and me only, not even my mum could come.  Daddy commented on how ticked off Jesse was that he couldn't come.

We finally arrived at the yard parking lot, and Dad called John, the engineer of 2816, and let him know we were there so he could bring our hard hats, safety goggles and safety vests.



John and Robby & Daddy's thumb


Safety Gear - check!


After meeting John, he took Daddy and I to see 'The Empress' (2816). John asked me 'Do you know how a steam engine works?'. And I said, " Yes, I do know how a steam locomotive works!" Then I started explaining it all to him and you could see on his face he was really surprised with how much I knew! His mouth came open!

Then John said it was time to check out the cab of the locomotive. He showed me how to climb in. You had to put your foot on a high bottom step, then hold the side bars tightly and climb up the ladder into the cab.

Then when we got into the cab it was bigger than I thought it would be (to be fair I've only seen cabs in my DVD movies and on my model trains).  Next John told Jim how much I knew about steam locomotives and then Jim said "He can't know what our jobs are?" and I said "As a matter of fact, I think I do".

I said to Jim you apply the brakes and watch for things on the track, and John drives the train forwards and backwards with that steering wheel thingy" (it does look like a small sized car wheel), Jim looked surprised.

Jim looking out of the cab

John at the 'steering wheel thingy'

In Part 2 I will go over some of the things I learnt about the inside of the cab.  See you next week!

Sabado, Hulyo 23, 2016

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Miyerkules, Hunyo 15, 2016

Getting Started With Milliput


Getting Started With Milliput

Milliput is a trade name for epoxy putty. There are five grades: Standard Yellow/Grey, Silver Grey, Superfine White, Terracotta, and the latest addition - Milliput Black. Each grade is presented in similar packs containing 2 x 56·7gm. sticks and the general instructions for preparation and usage are the same.
The two sticks have a long shelf life but once mixed the resultant putty is at first soft and highly adhesive and then gradually hardens. Speed of hardening is dependant on temperature and at normal temperatures (20-25ºC) Milliput becomes rock hard in three to four hours. By the application of heat the setting time can be reduced to a few minutes.



After setting hard Milliput continues to cure and is fully cured after an elapse of time equal to the setting time at the same temperature. Once fully cured Milliput can be machined, drilled, tapped, turned, filed, sawn, sandpapered and painted. Milliput can be sandpapered and painted immediately it has set. (it is advisable to wear eye protection during this process).
Milliput is an excellent adhesive and will bond any of the following to itself or to any of the others - wood, brick, cement, metals, concrete, plastics, glass etc, but note that Milliput is not intended as a thin layer adhesive and should not be used where a paste, mucilage or thin glue is indicated. Milliput will set under water and is heat resistant up to 130°C.
Shelf Life:
We recommend Milliput is stored in cool, dry conditions. Please reseal bags after use. Stored correctly this product should remain workable for about 2 years.


Black Milliput was introduced in response to user demand and can be used for Repairs to antique clocks, Guttering, Ebonised wood, Marble, Slate, Cast iron, Basalt ceramics and black plastic parts in cars (such as bumpers, small handles, buttons and knobs).

Yellow-Gray Milliput The epoxy putty with a thousand uses in modeling D.I.Y and industry. (Car repairs, military models, Marine craft repairs, household repairs like gutters)
Silver Grey Milliput was introduced as slightly  finer filler and is widely used for modelmaking, sculpting, taxidermy and for the repair of garden ornaments. (porcelin restoration- dolls & plates, Military Modeling, Domestic Repairs, ).
Superfine White Milliput For the restoration of porcelain and other ceramics for the repair of antiques, objects d'art, Victorian dolls, picture mouldings, etc. For sculpting and modeling. For the repair of white domestic chinaware and for filling scores and dents in white domestic equipment e.g. washing machines, refrigerators, etc. (porcelain restoration- dolls & plates, Military Modeling, Domestic Repairs, ).
**It is very important when using this grade of Milliput, because the sticks are virtually the same colour, that you mix the two parts for at least five minutes.**

Terracotta Milliput used for the restoration of terracotta and other ceramics. Also for the repair of garden urns, pots, Statuettes and damaged brickwork, etc. Also for sculpting and modeling. (Earthen wear pots, Quarry Tiles, Statuettes, damaged brickwork)



Use Milliput to add features for realism to models and figures or to customize.



A "Cool" Tip!
If you are interrupted while you are mixing Milliput, you can put the Milliput into a deep freezer until you can get back to work. This will keep the product at approximately the same state of setting at which it was frozen for up to 36 hours. Simply remove the now frozen product from the freezer and warm in the hand and it is ready to use. If stored immediately on mixing it retains its sticky nature.
Milliput crusting cure
Tom Sime - Epoxy 101
 
There are differences between brands of epoxy putties but they all have very similar properties.

I have used Milliput, AB as well as Magic Sculpt and if Milliput is used, as a “base line” AB is a little firmer in texture and Magic Sculpt is a little softer as well as having a surface “sheen” that (I find) makes judging depth a little more difficult than with Milliput.

One of the big problems when you purchase Milliput is that you don’t know how old it is. The darker stick has a tendency to “crusting” on its outside surface if its kept in storage for to long. If this is not dealt with then when you mix the two components you will have small pieces of the crust in the mix that will not cure properly as the Milliput hardens.

The cure for crusting is as follows-
1) Warm an oven to 200 Centigrade/Celsius.
2) Place the encrusted stick on a piece of foil and put into warm oven.
3) Make a cup of coffee/tea and drink it. This should take you 20 minutes.
4) After 20 Minutes carefully remove HOT Milliput from oven remembering that its HOT and STICKIE and if you touch it will STICK to YOU and BURN.
5) Allow the Milliput to cool till it is warm to the touch (don’t let it go cold) and you can handle it without burning yourself.
6) Now simply mix it well with itself thoroughly, this will take at least 3-5 minutes.
When the mix cools completely you will find that the lumps have been reconstituted and are no longer a problem.

All epoxy putties change in consistency between mixing and curing. At the time of mixing epoxies are soft and pliable, as time passes they tend to firm up and are less easy to work with sculpting tools. This knowledge can be used to your advantage.

Putty that is freshly mixed is soft and therefore ideal for sculpting and shaping with dental tools, toothpicks and homemade tools designed to meet your personal needs. I use Milliput for figure sculpting and use a selection of various sized needles that have been epoxy glued into the handles of old paintbrushes. A paintbrush moistened with a little water can be used as an aid to sculpting, blending and smoothing out the surface of whatever you creating. 
 


Putty that is no longer soft and malleable need not be discarded. If it has started to firm up it is perfect for rolling out and being cut and shaped for clothing, tarps, blankets, bedrolls etc. To roll out the putty simply dust it with a little talc place it on a flat surface and use piece of dowel/plastic rod to roll it out. Use a moist paintbrush to remove the talc before “fastening” into its final place.

There are few things more satisfying than creating your own sculpture/conversion. I hope the forgone helps you to do just this.

Another customer adds - A quicker method that I use is to place the "crusty" one on a glass dish and microwave on full power for approximately 10 seconds (depends on m/w output), then mix with itself.  just remember it is HOT when it comes out of the micro.

The info in this article is from Milliput.com & Tom Sime a customer




Huwebes, Abril 14, 2016

Getting back in the saddle with some modeling!


It's been a while since I've done any modeling railroading period.  With summertime here, my progress and projects will finally be moving forward.  As I said in my last post, I have two minor changes to the layout that will improve the operations.  First is the trackage from Battlefield Yard to   the helix to the lower level.  This little trackage has a "S" curve that's very unforgiving to 6 axle locomotives.  I could easily ignore it but it's something that will enhanced operations and is about a days work.  Six axle locos will not be held captive and the main reason I have them is to lug the bigger trains up the helix.
This is the trackage to the helix.  As you can see, the "S" curve in the trackage.  I plan on removing it and removing part of the wall on the right to making it into a sweeping curve out to the helix.
 My other layout change is the entire trackage on the Mine Run branch.  This is the trackage directly under Battlefield Yard on the lower level.  I want to make this more practical by adding a longer second track and add more room for the woodchip loading facility.  It mainly going to make it more practical and easier to operate.
Looking south towards the sand mine.  This section of trackage has probably had the least amount of coverage on this blog.  It will get some much need attention in the coming weeks.

Looking from the other end.  The double track "run-around" track will run from the other side of the canal to the bottom of this photo.  This should make switching this area more straight forward.  




Biyernes, Pebrero 12, 2016

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Sabado, Enero 9, 2016

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Huwebes, Disyembre 31, 2015

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Linggo, Oktubre 11, 2015

Whats Wrong With This Photo Wednesday



A little worse for wear, GACX 2718 sits all by itself at Kitchener, ON on 3/15/2015. Photo by my dad Keith.

Instead of the usual Wordless Wednesday today I thought I’d write about something a bit more interesting. Every now and then when railfanning, you may stumble across something you don’t see very often – maybe an old freight car in original paint, a locomotive from a fallen flag, or even a derailment. 

Today’s photo almost qualifies for the latter, but fortunately a sharp-eyed railroader caught the offending car and stopped it before it had the opportunity to derail. Observe car GACX 2718 at Kitchener, ON on 3/15/2015: on the surface (beneath all the rust!), the car appears to be a standard National Steel Car-built 3220-CF 2-bay hopper. The ends of the car have decals stating that it is leased to Eka Chemicals and a trace reveals it is hauling a load of salt from the Sifto Salt mine at Goderich, ON to the Eka plant at Magog, PQ. However a closer look reveals that this car will be delayed a bit – have a look at the B-end truck. It would appear that the car has received a heavy impact on that end which has caused the B-end centerplate to jump out of the bolster bowl. Note that the springs are unevenly compressed under the bolster, and that the truck has rolled inboard slightly of the centerplate (compare to A-end truck, or note that body bolster doesn't line up with center of truck sideframe). Interestingly, the car is loaded, so either it was impacted when empty and managed to travel this far before being noticed, or the car received an impact great enough to jolt it upwards despite being loaded. Either way, looks like the RIP track crew has their work cut out for them. Despite the delay in transit, it is indeed fortunate that the car didn't derail.


Cheers,
Peter.

Lunes, Hulyo 6, 2015

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Lunes, Hunyo 15, 2015

VMID Industry tour video series continues with part 2




Miyerkules, Hunyo 10, 2015

Im back with a new video for Memorial Day weekend


Well I'm back for Memorial Day and wanted to give a moment to thank all the Veterans, including my dad that have made this great country possible.  I fly my stars and stripes in front of my house everyday.  It's been a busy time with me but I do see the light at the end of the tunnel.  I did find some time to shoot a video today.  I recently purchased a Minuteman Models I-Car and finally put the finishing touches on it yesterday.  It holds my I-phone and you can film as if the camera is mounted on the front of the locomotive.  The video is a mainline run around the whole layout, top section.  I will have a trip down the helix to the lower level very soon.  Only modification I would do is to get rid of the Kadee sprung trucks it comes with.  They like to pick switches.  See if you can find where I saved the video from a derail right after the first road crossing.



Biyernes, Mayo 29, 2015

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Martes, Pebrero 17, 2015

Since I am done with track work lets change it and other items!


Yes, the title says it all.  I was totally done with ALL my track work.  Done on both the upper and lower levels, feeder wires, the whole thing.  But, I was not too happy with the sand loading facility trackage and the double diamond, so I ripped it all out.

So I got some changes:

  • No more diamonds or city junction
  • The VA Midland receives another industry: the elevator at Mid-Atlantic Feeds.  
  • The sand facility will have more trackage with 2 spurs
  • With the elimination of the diamond, there will only be 2 signals in this area.

I really wanted to keep the diamond, but it only makes sense and what I had was very unprototypical.
Here's what I am doing.  This all makes more sense and will be a better operation.  It s a quick fix and the only hard part is redoing the feeder wires.   Moving the sand unloader will be no fun either.
No, it's not a wiring nightmare, I'm installing some LED lighting on the upper level. 

Got these light poles about a year ago.  I installed them around the layout, but never hooked them up.  Here's an example of one.  Got them off Ebay from China cheap.  

They definitely put out the light!  Almost too much.

Overall view of the area.  There are a total of 7 lights.

A little night photography?  All I am missing is the flashing red lights from the RR crossing apparatus.  


Lunes, Nobyembre 24, 2014

An Interview with Model Train enthusiast Robin Cain


An Interview with Model Train enthusiast: Robin Cain 

Robin: I saw your Facebook request for photos of hobbies people are working on.  I thought you would like to check these out.



 


Chinook: Fantastic! Did you customize/paint it yourself? Tell me about this piece and why it's so special. 


Robin: It's an SD45 I made about 3 years ago...yes I did everything to it.  Athearn BLUE box

Chinook:  Is there anything else you would like to share about this SD45? 

Robin:   (thumbs up) ATHEARN BLUE BOX DC POWERED pepped up a little bit... Jewel marker lights, air hoses, grab irons, fire cracker antenna, rotating yellow Beacon, installed handrails, roof hooks, extra decaling on steps & body, custom painted & numbered number boards, center air hoses, box behind cab near turbocharger cover, custom painted & decalled.... Here's more pictures
Got it at a YARD sale for a dollar, it was a SANTA FE originally. Started off as a dummy. Recently was upgraded to a powered unit.









Chinook:  Why did you choose this loco to customize or paint?

Robin:  I was a hobo in the late 70's and rode a lot of FRISCO trains. The FRISCO SD45's was one of the giant purring kittens I slept in sometimes at night in different yards...lots of engineer's & trainmen knew me...I had a blast...miss it

Chinook:  a hobo? Where you checking out North America or just the US or just Canada?

Robin:  USA, NORTH AMERICA

Chinook:   Was it undecorated when you started? or did you strip it and repaint it? or did you do weathering and adding some things to a pre-painted loco?

Robin:  .it was a freight paint job for SANTA FE, only washed it with warm water & blue dawn, I primed it grey, painted it white, taped over white areas & put the orange to it with a badger spray unit, I altered the orange & added red, gloss colors of course.

Chinook:  How many build hours did it take you to do the work you did on it?

Robin:          13 hours to do units spread out over a month...I paint a tremendous amount of trains

Chinook:    How long have you been a model railroader and how long have you been painting/customizing your own pieces?

Robin:   I am 57, I have been a model railroader for 53 years...I been painting my own pieces since I was 10. I model the SEABOARD COAST LINE RAILROAD between AUGUSTA, GEORGIA & GREENWOOD, SOUTH CAROLINA. Just finished these BRIDGES built out of yard sticks & paint sticks








Chinook:    Do you have a designated hobby area?

Robin:  Oh yes! My layout! And my creator’s table.





Chinook:   What is your next project?

Robin:  My next project is to paint 10 SD45's.  6 BLACK...SCL 3 ROCK ISLAND BLUE 1 ROCK ISLAND RED

Chinook:   What city and state/province do you live in? Are you married? Do you share your hobby with your kids/grandkids?

Robin:  ONEONTA, ALABAMA.  My kids thinks I'm crazy because I tell them stories about people I've met honking and who I've played drums for.  I have a kids ministry. I give train's away to kids year round.  I am a train vendor, non-profit status.
I'm a little different than most people...LOL...child of the 60's & 70"s



Chinook:  Thanks so much for taking some time out of your busy day and answering these questions.

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Val, Chinook & Hobby West

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