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Sabado, Hulyo 9, 2016

Scale Trains Crude Oil Tank Car Review Comparison of the Rivet Counter Operator Series


End detail comparison between the Operator version (left) and the Rivet Counter version (right). 


Okay, time to get back to something more relevant to my primary focus for this blog (well, in theory anyhow) – model railroading.

Tonight I thought I’d take a look at some of the differences between the Scale Trains Operator and Rivet Counter lines which offer differing levels of detail for their “crude oil tank car” model.

The Prototype

The advent of easy to reach light sweet crude oil in the Bakken formation extending over much of the United States and Canadian prairies spurned a boom in the need to move this oil to refineries. Whereas pipelines offer greater capacity, they are stubbornly fixed in place, while railcars can be routed anywhere on the North American rail network. This is particularly beneficial to refineries beyond the reach of pipelines, such as those near the Pacific or Atlantic coasts (many pipelines tend to run generally north-south). 

While some of this demand could be met by existing equipment, new tankcars were required to handle this boom in oil traffic. Light crude is less dense than some other bulk liquid commodities so capacity could be expanded to just over 31,000 US gallons (30,000 gallons was the previous standard size). An industry-lead move to enhance tankcar safety resulted in the so-called CPC-1232 standard, whose key features over a standard 111A100W1 tankcar include: half-height head shields, fittings protection (in the event of a rollover), and increased tank thickness (9/16” vs previous minimum 7/16”). One builder of this new standard of car is Trinity Industries (the prototype Scale Trains modeled), which produced thousands of CPC-1232’s to meet the oil boom demand.

VMSX 310781 (owned by Valero Marketing & Supply) eastbound at Bayview Jct, ON, on 9 October 2016 with a load of ethanol (UN 1987). This car is the same prototype modeled by Scale Trains.


The Model

As noted previously, two versions of the car are offered: a basic model (“Operator” line) and a more detailed version (“Rivet Counter” line). I could tell you that “the model closely matches prototype dimensions”, but this isn’t Model Railroader. Instead, this post aims to identify some (not all) differences, and comment on the execution of each model. For this review, I acquire one of each version of the car, DPRX 259272 (Operator Line, Deep Rock Refining), and TILX 350417 (Rivet Counter Line, Trinity Industries Leasing fleet).

Side-by-side comparison of the two boxes for the Operator and Rivet Counter lines. It's easy enough to tell the difference from the front, but a difference of colours would make it even easier to tell the two lines apart.


            Operator Version

I think the concept of the Operator line is a brilliant move on Scale Trains’ part, especially for a car such as the crude oil model, which like the prototype is likely to operate in unit train consists. This appeals to someone wishing to run an HO version unit train, which would probably be prohibitively expensive to do with a solid train of Tangent-like quality. The Operator line comes with the same basic details including handrails metal wheels, side ladders, wire handrail stanchions, and most of the graphics. What it lacks compared to the Rivet Counter version includes:
  • Coupler operating levers
  • Double-shelf couplers
  • Rotating roller bearing caps
  • Wire grab irons
  • Placard decals
  • Mesh running boards
  • Thicker head shields (only slightly)
  • Complete brake gear (rods/plumbing)
  • Some graphics (such as “2 inch HF comp shoes” on side sills)
  • AEI tags

 
Overhead view of Scale Trains' Operator line. Note that this model incorrectly lacks the yellow reflective striping applied to all new cars built after 2005.


This is not to say that this is a “cheap” version in any way – this model still exceeds the quality of some other RTR models, even including some newer Walthers releases (prior to their Proto line). The graphics are still razor sharp, and if desired, the modeler can still add most of the omitted details (e.g. hazmat placard decals, cut levers, air hoses). In fact, I think for the retail price of $22.99 US, this is indeed a bargain, especially considering it’s a new model, not a re-release.


            Rivet Counter Version

Whereas the Operator line is a basic-detail version, I’d say the Rivet Counter line is above par compared to other high-end HO manufacturer’s in terms of details offered and their execution. Several details are noteworthy and not common to many other HO offerings including:
  • Car ID stenciled on truck sideframes
  • Rotating roller bearing caps (Athearn Genesis did have these, but not blue ones)
  • AEI tags on side sills – that’s cool!
  • Full brake gear including rods, levers, and brake hangers
  • Orange dot painted on handbrake chain – how cool is that?!


I’d say that the level of detail in the Rivet Counter line exceeds any other modern HO tank car previously offered, including the Athearn Genesis modern LPG tank car which is also a highly detailed model. Retail price for the Rivet Counter line is $38.99 (US).

Side view of the Rivet Counter model. Check out all the wire details - brake gear, grab irons, handrails, as well as coupler cut levers and double-shelf couplers.


General Comments

While Scale Trains did go above and beyond in some of their details, there was one gaff of note: some cars did not come with the yellow reflective conspicuity stripes. These stripes were made mandatory on new equipment starting in 2005, long before these CPC-1232 cars hit the rails. First built in 2012, all CPC-1232’s are equipped with the stripes; I believe the omission of stripes from some models was an erroneous effort to make the model applicable to modelers who want to depict the pre-stripe era.

Overhead view of the two models - not much different from this angle as the basic tank shell casting and fittings and manway cover appear to be the same between the two models. 


Both lines come with well-designed packaging that includes a soft plastic sheet to prevent scuffs from plastic packaging shell (the manufacturers finally seem to have made this somewhat-standard on new models). The colour scheme and product numbering scheme for the two lines is similar, at first glance it’s difficult to tell which line is which. Personally I think two different colours would be a better way to differentiate the two lines, but it’s easy enough to do when looking at the front of the boxes.

A comparison of the ends of the two models illustrates the differences including: couplers, grab irons, graphics (stenciling on had shield and placard decal), roller bearing caps, and air hoses.

From above, the thinner head shield on the Rivet Counter line is obvious, though in my opinion, the head shield on the Operator line is not obstructively or obviously thick. Also note the wire vs cast plastic crossover platforms, and the grab irons on the Rivet Counter model.


Conclusion


This was Scale Trains’ first RTR offering in HO, and being a tank car (with a lot of exposed details), it’s not an easy thing to get right. And that they did – I think the split offering satisfies modelers at both ends of the spectrum, some desiring a few highly detailed models, others a whole train of slightly-less detailed models. The models are well-executed and if this is an indication of things to come from Scale Trains, Atlas, Athearn, Walthers, and others should take note that there is a new, serious, player in the game. I think their recent announcement of a carbon black hopper will only continue the success generated from the Trinity 31,000-gal crude oil tankcar.

'Til next time,
Cheers,
Peter.

Miyerkules, Mayo 11, 2016

Erie Scale Test Car 03440


Erie 03440 at Hornell built in 1934 by Lake Erie Eng Corp.Buffalo, N.Y. in collection of author.
This is the real version in a photograph taken in 1940, and there is a Walther's version on the layout that was built in 2012.



Sabado, Abril 9, 2016

Basic Slot Car Maintenance Part 2


Make sure to check out Part 1 of our Basic Slot Car Maintenance to learn:

  • Fixing track to a Baseboard
  • Power drops and breaks
  • Testing Lane Change sections





Welcome to the exciting hobby of Slot Cars.  At the beginning it is great fun, until everything starts to hesitate and slow down. That's when you need to look after your setup so you can continue with maximum enjoyment of your Slot Car experience.

You are here to learn abut how to maintain your Slot Car setup before it needs major maintenance (we hope we've caught you in time, lol)

Weather you have a small and simple setup or a 4+ lane for club racing, the proper cleaning routine is needed.


Cleaning

Scalextric track

Since the year 2000, Scalextric amended the track design to improve the rigidity of the track and the ease of assembly. It is now possible to simply push two track pieces together in order to connect them, no need for fiddly connectors.

Cleaning Scalextric track

Light cleaning of track surface for daily use: Use a damp cloth or very lightly oiled cloth. This removes light grime and dust from the track surface. Wipe surface dry after using a damp cloth. As matter of good practice, always do this before using the Scalextric layout as this will help ensure you get the best grip from the car tyres.

Older Scalextric track

Track produced before the year 2000 is known as Classic track. It can be identified by the round popper track connectors.

Cleaning Classic track

Light cleaning of track surface for daily use: Use a damp cloth or very lightly oiled cloth. This removes light grime and dust from the track surface. Wipe surface dry after using a damp cloth.

Track rails

Unless kept in perfect conditions, older track rails will acquire quite a dark tarnish to the pick-up rails and this will prevent the right amount of current getting through to the motor. To remove the tarnishing or oxidisation, try a Hornby Railways track rubber to see if some of the surface tarnish can be removed.

Corrosion and heavy tarnishing

Use a mild abrasive material to shine up the running surfaces of the pick-up rails, making sure that the male and female connections at the ends of the track sections are also bright and shiny. Be aware that sometimes no amount of cleaning of heavily corroded rails and connectors will return the track to a useable state and replacement of track in this condition is the only alternative.



Cleaning and Lubricating The Chassis

Scalextric cars do not require additional oiling when used, say, for racing for fun. However, if you wish to improve the performance of your car there are several things you can do.

Top Tip: Lubrication of moving parts.

Level: Beginner - use these instructions if you have basic hobby skills.

Tools required: Small philips screwdriver, small stiff brush, 3-in-1 oil.
  1. Remove the chassis from the car body.
  2. Use a small stiff brush to remove the dust and dirt from the interior of the chassis
  3. Use tweezers or similar to remove debris entangled in the axles and wheels
  4. Place one drop of light 3-in-1 oil to each of the axle bearings and to the motor shaft bearings
  5. Wipe off any excess oil
  6. Re-assemble the chassis to the car body
  7. Test the car on track

Level: Expert - Only carry out these steps if you are an experienced hobbyist

Tools required: Small philips screwdriver, small stiff brush, tweezers, 3-in-1 oil.
  1. Remove the chassis from the car body
  2. Remove dust and dirt from the interior of the chassis
  3. Remove impacted or loose debris at the axles, wheels, bearings, gears and, very importantly, between each tooth of the motor pinion gear and main axle gear wheel
Place one drop of light 3-in-1 oil to:
  1. each of the axle bearings
  2. the motor shaft bearings
  3. guide blade shaft (remove guide blade screw)
  4. thread of each chassis screw (during re-assembly)
  5. Wipe off any excess oil
  6. Re-assemble the chassis to the car body. Tighten the body screws fully (do not over-tighten) then back off the screw by one complete turn to leave the chassis slightly loose to the car body. This may not be appropriate for open wheel cars, but as a general rule this will improve performance. Test the car and adjust the screwn tightness accordingly.
  7. Test the car on track




Guide Braid/Blade Replacement

What is the guide and braid?

The guide is normally a small 'keel' (but can be a pin as used in Micro Scalextric) which runs in the track slot and guides the car around the track layout.
The braid is fitted to the slot guide blade assembly. It allows electrical power to pass from the track rails, up through the braids and into the car to power the lights, motor and, if fitted, a digital chip, etc.
With regular use, the braid will eventually wear out and will need to be replaced. Regular maintenance and care can see a braid last for the life of the car.

To keep the braid in good repair:

  • always clean them with a small stiff brush (an old toothpaste brush is ideal)
  • ensure that the braids are flat against the guide and not angled down
  • ensure that the braids are positioned so that they are in line with the track slot rails.

Replacing the braid

Since 1990, an easy-fit system has been used and most Scalextric cars have a very simple push-fit method of replacing the braid.

Replacing the guide blade:

Guide blades do not wear out and will only need replacing in the event of breakage. The easy-fit guide blade can be replaced from the exterior of the car without the need for tools. The recent C8329 round guide blade requires a screwdriver to gain access to the interior of the car to release the guide blade retaining screw.





We carry Scalextric 1:32 scale Slot Cars. We are expanding our selection for the slot car season of 2014-2015 (November to March).


source

Sabado, Marso 26, 2016

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Sabado, Pebrero 13, 2016

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Martes, Enero 26, 2016

Camera Car Inspection Train



The "track inspection train" ready to go with the camera riding in the cradle Mark built, and on one of his flatcars (my Intermountain 60' flatcar seemed to have some balance problems with the camera on it so Mark supplied one of his flatcars). Some square key stock has been added to the car to balance it out and add some ballast so as to stabilize the rock-and-roll over bumps and switches). Power for the train was CN 9675 (Athearn Genesis).

Recently I’ve been playing around on Youtube, looking at videos where model railroaders have placed a small camera on a flatcar and rolled it around their layout. I found this incredibly interesting, not only to see other people’s equipment on their layout, but their creativity in planning trackwork, scenery, or even other trains on the layout. Poking around on eBay one day, I came across a small video camera designed for mounting to bicycle helmets for $30 (including shipping) that was fit nicely on an HO scale flatcar. A few days after purchasing the video camera it showed up in the mail, and in short order the camera was taking a ride around the layout. My brother Mark did an excellent job of building a small wooden cradle to hold the camera (it has a round cross-section) and off we went up and down every spur and track on the layout. I’m not sure why, but I find it quite amusing to watch the resultant video, particularly in areas of the layout not normally/easily accessible. It also occurred to me that this is more-or-less the HO scale version of a track inspection train. While it doesn’t measure the gauge or detect sub-surface rail flaws, it is nonetheless useful for evaluating spots that may need some repair, such as dips or kinks in the flextrack. The camera offers a nearly-track level view of the layout, a perspective not normally seen from our normal “helicopter” vantage point, which I think is pretty neat. 
Backing into the yard (screen-capture of video). 

Overall, for $30, I think this is a good bit of fun. One thing we did learn though: depending on how you mount the camera on a flatcar, it may suddenly become an Excess Height car, so watch where you take it! Mark found out one day that, even though double stacks can fit under the bridge on our layout, when the camera is elevated to a position to simulate a rooftop-view, a bridge-camera interference problem develops (see photos below).

A rooftop view, mid-train. 

The 'black box' revealed the cause of the wreck: the car (camera mounted on it) was too high! Image from video taken just prior to impending collision. 


‘Til next time,
Cheers,

Peter. 

Martes, Disyembre 22, 2015

Lower level track laying and a custom car delivery


In my last post, I said I would have a post up by Sunday/Monday.  Well it's Thursday night and the post is finally here.  I had a sinus infection on Sunday and actually missed work on Monday.  So nothing got accomplished those two days.  Did get another snow day on Wednesday and got a little done that I had wanted to get done earlier on in the week.  The mainline is finished through the area I started on.  The mainline comes out from the helix and through the wall to the lower level.  It comes through a set of turnouts and continues to hidden trackage that leads west.
In this view, we are looking east towards the "hole in the wall".  The mainline is the trackage in the picture.  The roadbed on the right will lead to the branch line.

In this view, we see the hole to helix and the branch line trackage the bulkhead is on.  I will put a curved turnout where the foam starts for the runaround track for the branch line.

The mainline west.  There will be another turnout added for a runaround track for the branch line.   Tortoise switches were already installed for the On30 track.  I used the same basic layout I had so I did not have to move the Tortoises.

Norm Wolf did a custom MOW tie hopper for me.  He delivered it to me on Wednesday.  It's an Athearn blue box Ex SCL hopper.  Norm did a sensational job on it.

He even added a scrap tie load to the interior.

It will look right at home with my other MOW cars like the side dump car is coupled to.


Biyernes, Disyembre 4, 2015

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Miyerkules, Nobyembre 18, 2015

Basic Slot Car Maintenance Part 1


Welcome to the exciting hobby of Slot Cars.  At the beginning it is great fun, until everything starts to hesitate and slow down. That's when you need to look after your setup so you can continue with maximum enjoyment of your Slot Car experience.

You are here to learn abut how to maintain your Slot Car setup before it needs major maintenance (we hope we've caught you in time, lol)

Weather you have a small and simple setup or a 4+ lane for club racing, the proper cleaning routine is needed.



Fixing Track to a Baseboard

Ideally, it is best not to nail, screw or glue the track to a base board at all. The reason for this is that plastic and metal, the two ingredients of Scalextric track, expand and contract at different rates. So, on hot days the plastic will expand larger than the rail. Of course, the rail won't let the plastic expand evenly due to the rail gripping the plastic. This causes the track surface to warp.
When the track is laid loose the circuit can 'grow' and absorb any expansion due to heat. If the track is not allowed to move freely (ie nailed down) then any expansion will only lead to uneven surfaces.
If the layout is to lay flat, leave the track loose. Keep the layout in a dry and constant temperature room. This normally means that the loft, shed and garage are not good places.



Power Drops and Breaks

The most often asked question is 'My car has stopped on the track. What has broken?'

The most common (1 =most common) reasons that this might happen are:
  1. The track piece that the car is resting on has no electrical power due to bad track connections.
  2. The car motor has expired or their is a mechanical reason within the car that is stopping the motor from turning (e.g. tyre jammed against wheel arch).
  3. A guide braid has come out.
  4. The hand controller is not plugged in to the power base fully.
  5. The electrical power switch is turned off.
  6. The car has developed a fault.
  7. The hand controller has broken.
  8. A motor wire has broken.
  9. The power base has broken.
  10. The power base is not connected to the power supply.
  11. The power supply lead is broken.
  12. The power supply has broken.

Here's how to cure the most common problem of electrical power problems on the track - No 1 above.

When the following procedure has been completed you should be able to race cars at full speed on tracks of up to 200 feet or more without any practical electrical problems.
Power jumper cables can be used on 'analogue' or digital track circuits. Note, though, that a power jumper cable only hides a bad track connection and, ultimately, it is better to fix the track problem than add power jumper cables.
Question: There are power breaks or weak power sections on the Scalextric layout. How can this be repaired?
Answer:When a car stops on circuit this can indicate TWO breaks in electrical continuity since electricity travels in both directions around the track. If there was only one break then you would not notice it as electricity flows in both direction!

The way to correct this problem is to:

  • Disconnect the track behind the power base.
  • Then drive a car forward at a slow speed. When the car crosses from one piece of track to the next there should not be a drop in power/speed.
  • If there is a drop or loss in power, then fix the track connection. Disconnect both track pieces (the track piece immediately before and after the fault). Turn them over on a hard surface. Ensure that the metal rail tabs at the ends of the rails (there are 8 of them on every track piece) are fully pressed and clamped down to the plastic. Use a stout screwdriver or similar to push them tight.
  • Watch this video on how to do this Track tab maintenance.
  • Reconnect the repaired track pieces and retest by placing the car back at the power base and again drive the car slowly forward until you meet the next reduced or lost power section.
  • Continue the above repair process until you get to the last track piece before the power base.
  • Reconnect the last track piece to the power base.
  • Full power should now be restored.

Testing Lane Change Sections


In the event that a lane change track piece fails to operate follow this simple procedure:

  • Disconnect the lane change track piece and check that the rail connections are all good. See other Top Tips feature regarding track connections and loss of power.
  • Check that there are no obstructions in the slot preventing the flipper from physically moving. It should 'flip' freely.
  • Ensure that the track piece hasn't been bent (stood on, for instance) which will also cause the flipper to jam.
  • Reconnect the track piece and turn power on.
  • Manually move the flipper in to the position which would cause the car to change lane. Manually push a car over the track lane change sensor (this is a round hole about one car length before the flipper). The flipper should flip back to the 'straight ahead' position.
  • The lane change track piece should be usable if the above procedures have not identified any problems.




We carry Scalextric 1:32 scale Slot Cars. We are expanding our selection for the slot car season of 2014-2015 (November to March).


source

Huwebes, Agosto 27, 2015

Freight Car Friday PROX 75439 HO



One of the latest additions to the rolling stock fleet, PROX 75439, is ready for action on the layout. The car has been gloss-coated after decalling, but will be weathered to enhance its' appearance - it's too clean and shiny!

Today’s Freight Car Friday takes on a slightly different theme: instead of discussion of a 1:1 scale freight car, I thought I’d talk about one of my 1/87 scale pieces of rolling stock, PROX 75439. This is the latest project I have been able to complete (only took me five months, working on-and-off on the car!), and was a relatively easy project to complete.

Prototype Info
Procor Limited operates several hundred 23,500-gal insulated tank cars in mono-ethylene glycol service (MEG), with the cars easily identified by their distinctive green colour. Trinity industries operates a small number of cars in MEG service as well. Numbered in the PROX 75100-75400 series, as well as PROX 71000-71100, the cars haul MEG, a plastics-making feedstock, from Scotford, Alberta to various destinations across North America. Initially, much of the MEG was shipped to ports in British Columbia for export to China, but after Chinese firms constructed their own plants to produce MEG, new markets were found in Canada and the US. This results in cars often operating in small groups (3-4 cars, for example), which would make an ideal sized cut of cars to serve an HO industry on one’s layout. Why the green colour? Given that their initial routing through Alberta and British Columbia traversed a large amount of forested territory, a consultant hired by the lessee recommended that the green colour be applied to minimize any visual disturbance to the forest environment (does that mean that bears are scared of black tank cars?). Early in their service lives, the MEG fleet was prone to a number of large wrecks, which destroyed a relatively high percentage of the fleet (including a number of high-profile wrecks, such as one in which cars fell into the Fraser River Canyon), thus contributing to the ordering of new cars in the PROX 71000-series to replace the wrecked cars (as well as to meet increased cycle times when cars started operating across North America).

The Model

Walthers makes a Union Tank Car-style 23,500 gal tank car, and has done so for a number of years; thus there are a lot of them around, and they’re easy to find at local train shows. Walthers has done at least three runs of PROX 75000-series MEG cars, which were reasonably accurate (for the time). The latest Walthers Proto line release, about two years ago, included upgrades such as 36” metal wheels and brake gear detail. In general, Walthers has got the colour close to prototype, though prototype colours vary widely from a dark green when new to a very pale green when cars fade in the sun (particularly the early cars with waterbased paint).

PROX 75439 sits in the yard waiting to be blocked on an outbound freight.


What Walthers hasn’t done in scale yet is one of the cars from the PROX 75400-75449 series, which were slightly different without the large “PROCOR” wordmark on the sides of the car. So after picking up a few Chevron-painted Walthers models at a local train show, I decided to model one of these somewhat unusual cars. After stripping off the lettering on the Chevron car (pretty minimal), the car was primered grey with Krylon paint. I used Tamiya Park Green for the car, which is a bit brighter than prototype, but I didn’t want to get into mixing a custom colour for future cars that I want to paint as well. The good news is that the cars weather fairly quickly, so when I get around to weathering the car (artificially making the colour darker), it should be pretty close to prototype. A Microscale 87-1466 decal set was used to add graphics to the car; this is a fairly new release by Microscale (first sold about a year ago I believe), and contains generally-accurate graphics and information for a number of Procor car types. One thing that is inaccurate however, is the reporting mark font: newer Procor cars constructed at Union Tank Car facilities use a narrower, heavier font than the Microscale set comes with. Highball Graphics makes an alphabet set that is close, but slightly too thick. I elected to stick with the Microscale set for convenience. Decalling was a relatively straightforward affair, and took less than an hour. I modeled the car in its’ as-built appearance, without any graffiti or patch paint repairs. I chose PROX 75439 as this sequence of digits was already arranged in the Microscale set. In addition to standard tank car information such as qualification decal, reporting marks on top of car, and tank specification (111A100W1), these cars include the yellow Optimiser decal as well as a Chemtrec (emergency reporting information) decal on each side of the car. Also, white reflective circular dot decals were applied per prototype, which were applied when the car was new (before regulatory requirements for the yellow stripes came along). Other upgrades to the car include Walthers 100T trucks and MccHenry double-shelf couplers. In all, including purchasing the Chevron car ($12), parts, paint, and the decal set, this car cost less than $30. One thing that is still inaccurate is that the Walthers model does not include the fittings flange correctly per prototype. The car comes with a manway and small fittings cover, however with the prototype having top-unloading capability, the valve package requires a large cover on the fittings plate.  At some point in the future I will remove the existing small fittings cover and apply a proper-sized fittings cover to the car, to be made from spare styrene stock. Until then, I’ll let the car operate in revenue service for a while; lots of other projects to work on!

Until next time,
Cheers,
Peter.



Huwebes, Hunyo 11, 2015

Weekend Project – Athearn Tank Car “Repaint” 100th Post!



Over the weekend I turned an Athearn RTR UTC 30,000-gal tank car that was originally decorated for DODX into one decorated for Procor (PROX). 


Lately my free time has been reduced a bit due to work demands, so I thought I’d attempt more small projects that I could reasonably accomplish in the span of a weekend. This past weekend I wrapped up the first of what will hopefully be a series of regular updates on this sort of thing. And, as it turns out, this is my 100th post - how time flies!

This week’s project involves redecorating an Athearn RTR Union Tank Car prototype 30,000 gal general purpose tank car. I say redecorating because I didn’t actually repaint the car. Instead, I took a ready to run model that was painted for the US Department of Defense (DODX) and used a Badger air eraser to scrub off the unwanted lettering. The air eraser is essentially a small grit blaster that can use baking soda or aluminum oxide as a blasting media (I use baking soda, it’s much cheaper than aluminum oxide). I carefully masked the areas to be removed, which allowed for preservation of most of the car’s original finish. I specifically chose the DODX car to start with as it had substantially less graphics to start with compared to other paint schemes of the same car. Also, it’s somewhat less desirable, so it was much cheaper to buy than some of the other RTR schemes.

After masking the areas to be removed, I blasted off the unwanted lettering outdoors. Doing so does take a sizeable air compressor due to the amount of air required, at relatively high pressure. After I was done, I rinsed the car with water and let it dry overnight. I then used Microscale’s set 87-1466 (Procor/PROX, Various Tank Cars) to reapply the desired lettering. The set is a great improvement over some of their previous offerings for Procor equipment, but still contains a number of inaccuracies. Using the air blaster, I was able to preserve some of the original graphics such as the “2 INCH HF COMP SHOES” on the side sill and the COTS decals. Lettering was pretty straightforward, using prototype photos found on Chris Vanderheide’s Canadian Freight Car Gallery website. I found a car only two numbers away; I chose PROX 44815 since the number was already aligned in the decal set and wouldn’t require any splicing of individual digits. In prototype, the car is used to carry condensate, essentially a thinning agent used in crude oil pipelines to improve viscosity. The real-life car was built in 2007 at UTC’s now-closed East Chicago, IN plant, and is one of many so-called “short GP30’s” in the fleet (General Purpose, 30,000-gal capacity, less than 60’ in length over pulling faces).  I enjoy decal work since it’s easy to see the results of one’s work, and in this case, pretty quick; the car was decaled in less than an hour. After decaling I used Testor’s gloss coat to seal the decals to the car. I will eventually weather the car lightly, as I model up until 2010, so the car would still be relatively clean and shiny in my modeling era.

‘Til next time,
Cheers,

Peter.