Linggo, Hulyo 31, 2016

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Making Trees My First Forest


With the first section of my layout’s ground cover well under way, it was finally time to start putting some trees together. Since my layout is set in a mountainous terrain somewhere in the Canadian Rockies, it will feature forests comprised of pine trees, most of which will be in the back-half of my layout. The front half will feature more deciduous type trees around the residential, commercial, and industrial areas.

I decided to use Woodland Scenics plastic tree armatures for my pine trees, and for the majority of my deciduous trees. Using the tree armatures does of course require assembly, but are a lot less expensive and look far more realistic then most pre-made trees. Making trees completely from scratch however is probably the most economical option, but I like the look and ease-of-use of the tree armatures, so this was the method I chose.

Woodland Scenics pine and deciduous tree armaturesWoodland Scenics pine and deciduous tree armatures

The first step was to prep the armatures by bending the branches and limbs into a 3-dimentional shape. Once all the armatures were properly shaped, I mounted them by their bases to a sheet of foam board. I will not use the bases of the trees on my layout as they look very unrealistic, however the bases work well for holding the armatures upright while I work on them. I airbrushed the armatures with a mixture of chocolate brown and gray paint to get a more realistic colour. I then applied a coat of dull-coat to get rid of any gloss left on the trees.

Tree armature covered with Hob-e-Tac adhesiveTree armature covered with Hob-e-Tac adhesive

The next step was to apply an adhesive onto the armatures. Woodland Scenics recommends their own tacky adhesive, Hob-e-Tac, so this is what I used. I applied it to the armatures using the supplied brush, doing about 6 trees at a time. I was careful to not apply too much glue to the trunk of the tree, as most trees don’t have a large amount of foliage growing out in that area. I let the Hob-e-Tac set for about 15 minutes until it became clear and very tacky.

Dipping and rolling tree armature in scenic ground foamWoodland Scenics pine tree armature with conifer green foliage

I then dipped and rolled the armatures in Woodland Scenics foam products. For the pine trees, I used Conifer Green Coarse Turf, and for the deciduous trees I used a combination of Medium Green Clump Foliage and Underbrush. I had a couple deciduous armatures from Life-Like, which I covered with Light Green Coarse Turf. I found that the pine trees looked a little empty, so I used Conifer Green Foliage to fill them in a bit. By using different sized pieces of foliage which I stretched out and placed randomly between the branches, the pine trees lost their generic, pipe-cleaner look.

Woodland Scenics deciduous tree armatures with medium green clump foliageFirst batch of pine trees ready for my layout

After applying the foliage to all the trees, I noticed the next day that large amounts of the clump foliage had fallen off of my deciduous trees. I realized that unlike the very light coarse turf I used on my pine trees, the heavier clump foliage did not get a good enough grip on the Hob-e-Tac adhesive from simply rolling the armature around in the material. Instead, I had to hand press all of the clump foliage onto the armature to ensure that it was properly secured. I then shook each tree to remove any loose pieces and to see where I needed to apply more.

First batch of pine trees ready for my layoutLife-Like deciduous tree armatures with light green foliage

The final step was to highlight the trees with blended turf, which gave the trees a more realistic look. I sprinkled a little bit of Earth Blend on the pine trees, and used Green Blend on the deciduous trees. I then gave all of the trees a spray of thinned white glue to seal everything in. Be careful to not get the clump foliage too wet, as the added weight is actually enough to cause the clumps to drop off of the armatures.

The trees are now ready to be added to my layout. I should have my fist post on the first stage of my scenery within the next couple weeks, as long as everything goes as planned.

Sabado, Hulyo 30, 2016

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Biyernes, Hulyo 29, 2016

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Huwebes, Hulyo 28, 2016

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Martes, Hulyo 26, 2016

10 Tips For Buying A Model Kit




Generally a model kit contains a scale model of an object or vehicle - automobile, aircraft, military vehicle, motor, building, replica figure, etc. (there are many to look at and choose from). Such kits include all the necessary pieces of the idea photo on the box (make sure to ask if you are unsure as some buildings show fences and trees, but these are sold separately or just a special part(s) of a larger model), which the hobbyist assembles and then personalizes with paints and decals (usually sold separately).
With model kits, there are two primary types of hobbyists: the builder and the collector. The builder fancies the challenge and the hands-on aspect. The collector, on the other hand, focuses on the possessing, and many collectors opt to display the kits untouched, in their original packaging.

Buying a Model Kit

For the new hobbyist, buying a model kit can be a daunting task simply due to the sheer amount of choice that’s available. Collectors have to choose a vehicle and the scale at which they want to work. Then, they have to factor in price, complexity, customization, tools and supplies, and so forth. If the desired model is no longer manufactured, then the hobbyist has to deal with a series of additional concerns, including appreciation. Choosing a kit is not simple, but even the new hobbyist can avoid the most common pitfalls by following these 10 tips:

1. Research Model Kit Types

The first step is awareness of the various types of kits that are available. The traditional model kit, often called Snap-Tite or Skill Level 1, is made of plastic and simply snaps together. Snap-Tite kits are very newbie-friendly and usually only require mild filing and light gluing to complete.  Experienced hobbyists will eventually graduate to Skill 2 requiring glue and paint and to any of the more advanced Skill 3-5 kits as well as die cast models and radio-controlled vehicles.


2. Choose a Vehicle Type

The next step is to choose the type or class of vehicle. The most popular model kit classes are classic, sports car, NASCAR, hot rod, truck, and service vehicles. Classic car models tend to focus on American muscle, but there are models available for the classics from all over the world. Skill 1 classics tend to be the most accessible kind of kits for the beginner. Hot rods are roadsters, typically open wheel, that have very distinctive aesthetics and engine mount configurations. Hot rods make great looking models, but they can be quite challenging in the building and customization stages. The most popular type of automotive model kit is the sports car model (Corvette, Austin Martin, Ferrari, etc), a class that focuses on street legal sports cars from all years and from all around the world. In the U.S., NASCAR models rival the sports car and classic car classes in overall popularity. The service vehicle class, which are intricate and challenging, includes vehicles like fire trucks, ambulances, snowplows, and so forth.
And just to add to the pile, don't forget Military vehicles, aircraft and ships.

3. Select an Interesting Subject

When choosing a particular model, collectors should opt for a subject that engages them. A Porsche 911 is very popular and a staple in most automotive model collections, but it can also be very boring due to that commonness. Rather than choosing a model based on what is already known, the collector should shop around until a model chooses them. Finding a model car that is aesthetically interesting, challenging to build but still suitable to the beginner, can be difficult, but such models are available.

4. Decide on Scale

The next step is to choose the scale of the model. The most common model size for a car is 1:25 (and manufacturers often use 1:24 rather than 1:25), which is approximately 6 to 7 inches long. In Europe, 1:18 is also very popular. The 1:18 kits are approximately 9 inches long. There are also 1:60 scale kits, which are approximately 3 inches long and are particularly well suited to the small hands of a young child. Small kits are also popular among collectors and builders who enjoy the miniaturization aspect, but tiny kits can require a great deal of patience and fine hand control.
We will discuss in a future blog about the different scales in military, ships and aircraft.

5. Evaluate the Complexity

After choosing the model and scale, consider the complexity of the kit. The first gauge of complexity is the number of pieces in the kit. A Skill 1 kit usually has less than 50 pieces. A Skill 2 kit can have up to 200 pieces. A Skill 3-5 kit can have 200-1500 or more pieces and include many fine parts.
Skill 1 kits are preferable for beginners, children, and adult builders who just want a relaxed experience. Most children can complete a Skill 1 kit with little supervision and only occasional help. Skill 2 or higher kits require additional skills, tools, and supplies. Be aware that choosing a complex model that the builder isn’t ready for can intimidate and overwhelm the builder and therefore loose interest in a very enjoyable hobby.

6. Consider Customization Options and Necessities

An often hidden aspect of model building is the optional, and sometimes necessary, customization and personalization of the model. Automotive model kits are often labeled 2-in-1, 3-in-1, and so on; what that means is that the build process has a branch that allows for multiple finishes. For instance, many classic car kits come in a 3-in-1 configuration, which means that the collector can build it as a stock car, custom car, or race car. Many hobbyists opt to build these kits in all variants and display them alongside each other. First-time builders, however, should consider a basic kit that has no variants for simplicity.

7. Consider the Needed Tools and Supplies

Another important consideration is tools and supplies. The beginner will require basic hobby tools, such as a hobby knife, tweezers, paint, a fine file, and modeling glue/cement. Skill 2 and higher kits, however, will require a range of hobby knives and files as well as putty, sanding paper, spur cutters and perhaps a rotary tool or other power tools. Diecast models require metalworking tools, and radio-controlled models require batteries, an electronic motor, controller, and so forth.

8. Opt for a New Automotive Model Kit

Manufacturers produce kits in runs, which are typically time-limited. Once a run ends, the kit then becomes vintage and begins to appreciate in value. Vintage model cars sell at many times their original sticker price. For the builder, the most common reason to buy vintage is to get a particular classic car, which tend to go in and out of production. Although this will limit the hobbyist’s options, the beginner should focus on new kits in order to work with modern materials and avoid the vintage premium. (many kits are done in a re-release at milestone marks such as the 10th, 25th or 50th year anniversary of that kit or the car/piece)


9. When Buying Vintage, Price It and Haggle for It

If the collector opts to purchase a vintage model, then they should price it first. Price guides will provide a general appraisal, and the Internet is a powerful resource to determine the actual going rate. When buying a vintage model, shop around; check online, local shops, garage sales and shows/conventions. Once found, don’t settle for the listed price, which is generally a best-case scenario for the vendor.
(Be realistic in your negotiations you don't want to insult the one selling the kit in case you want to buy from them again)

10. New Builders Should Have a Contingency Plan

New builders should have a contingency plan because first builds usually do not go according to plan. A benefit of buying a current kit is that the collector can easily purchase an additional kit from the store or replacement parts directly from the manufacturer. Some vendors sell open box kits, which may be missing parts but are a cost-effective way to have spare parts on hand.


Conclusion

Buying a model kit for the first time can be difficult due to the sheer amount of choice available. A hobbyist’s first step should be to educate himself or herself on the various options that are available: classes, models, scales, books and other sources. Next, the beginner should choose a subject that interests them, but also one that isn’t so complex that makes it difficult to learn. With the first build under one's belt, the builder will be able to graduate to one of the more intricate kits the next time, and go into dioramas - but that's another blog......

What did you think of this article?  Please email us or comment on this post and let us know your thoughts and questions.




partial source 

Lunes, Hulyo 25, 2016

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Linggo, Hulyo 24, 2016

Model Railroading Fun for Little and Big Kids!


One of my first memories was watching my dad unpack a new train set he just bought. He set it all out on a shelf and warned us not to touch it as it wasn't a toy. Then he brought in a large piece of plywood and we all got to help plan out track and scenery and it became a great family project!

We never did get to run that train although I remember the joy on my dad's face as he ran it. Now its my turn. I have a 9 year old boy and my husband, son, daughter and myself added on to the set that Santa brought. Every time I go into the playroom my son has a whole story line going on. He'll watch a documentary in the background and act it out on his layout. Using the same or similar locomotives and cars and rearranging the buildings and creating mountains with crumpled paper, or a farm with his sisters animals. Its amazing to watch. My favourite is when my husband brings in one of the trains that his father used to run and the two of them are lost in that world of imagination and creativity.

This is one of the sets my son bought with Christmas and birthday money. (I did chip in a bit)

Over the last five years many of the old model railroaders have passed on or just cannot carry on the hobby and the hobby industry started panicking about how there will be no one to sell model railroading too. I have to say, that's not what I am seeing at our Chinook & Hobby West stores (address' at the bottom of this blog).

I get to see adults and kids everyday and the wonder in their eyes as they see the big G scale run around our stores. The beginner sets we have in HO and N are great to start into as you can set them up on the kitchen table to start with. There are Model Railroading shows throughout the world on a regular basis.  Supertrain 2012 is this April 21 & 22 (http://www.supertrain.ca) and is Canada's largest train show with layouts, classes, clinics and vendors to help you find and satisfy your train bug.

Lately with shows like The Big Bang Theory, we see young adults getting into the excitement of the model railroading hobby.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCNrs23r4DA here is the clip to enjoy!

So, come on down and see us here at Chinook & Hobby West and let us help YOU find the fun!

South Store:
5011 MacLeod Tr. SW
Calgary, AB   T2G 0A9
ph- 1-877-525-5785
hobbywest@shaw.ca


North Store:
2604- 4th St. NW
Calgary, AB   T2G 0A9
ph - 403-984-3438
hobbywest@gmail.com

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Sabado, Hulyo 23, 2016

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Miyerkules, Hulyo 20, 2016

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Lunes, Hulyo 18, 2016

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Trains > N Scale > Freight Cars > See more Model Power 89693 N Scale
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Motors for ho trains bachmann ho scale model train engines ho scale
MTH 30-20233-1 Milwaukee Road Baldwin AS616 Diesel Locomotive w/PS 3.0
MTH 30-20233-1 Milwaukee Road Baldwin AS616 Diesel Locomotive w/PS 3.0
Micro-Trains 312040 – Small Parts Packet for Couplers – N Scale
Micro-Trains 312040 – Small Parts Packet for Couplers – N Scale
 Minnesota Subdivision: Introducing the N Scale Thompson River Canyon
Minnesota Subdivision: Introducing the N Scale Thompson River Canyon
Garage Shop Accessories Miniature # 3 for 1:24 (G) Scale DIORAMA • $
Garage Shop Accessories Miniature # 3 for 1:24 (G) Scale DIORAMA • $

Sabado, Hulyo 16, 2016

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Biyernes, Hulyo 15, 2016

Throwback Thursday 23 CN GP9 4508 at Barrie ON in the Late 1970s




CN GP9 #4508 brings a short wayfreight southward past the Barrie, ON station on a summer's day in the late 1970's. There's just something about the boys sitting on the baggage cart that add an element of timelessness to the photo. Photographer unknown, scan from 35MM Kodak negative from author's collection. 

Tonight’s Throwback Thursday takes us to Barrie, ON, about fourty years ago (the image was scanned from a negative, so actual date is unknown, but we can approximate it to somewhere around 1975-1982). In my opinion, if there was ever an image that captured the essence of railroading in Canada in the late 1970’s or early 1980’s, this shot comes close. There may not be a 52’ bulkhead flatcar in the consist or a VIA consist with “blueline coaches”, but a lot of the other elements that make this a classic CN shot are present: GP9, M420W, 3800 CF cylindrical hopper, Hawker Siddely van, and even a well-maintained passenger station. Each symbols in some way of Canadian railroading at the time, they combine to form a neat little scene that to me is a lot more than just a train in front of a station. The engines, both Canadian-built, CN 4508 and an unidentified MLW M420W exemplify the road’s two paint schemes at the time, the “wet noodle” and “zebra stripe”. A product of a 1961 corporate re-branding, the red, black, and white scheme has endured in some form for over 50 years to the road’s present image (though in my mind, the pinnacle of CN’s motive power aesthetics were achieved in the SD50F). Along with the GP38-2W’s, the M420W’s were the first units delivered with the zebra stripe paint scheme in 1973. A couple of 40’ refer cars trail the locomotives, as well as a 3800 CF cylindrical hopper, also built in Canada by National Steel Car in Hamilton, ON. A popular size with Canadian roads, similar cars were owned by CP, TH&B, Procor, and others. No doubt an HO model would bring a smile to many modelers faces as it is a rather involved kitbash project. Bringing up the markers is a Hawker Siddely CN wide-vision caboose; though it’s difficult to see, the CN noodle centred underneath the cupola point to a Hawker-built van in the CN 79200-79349 series, built 1967, rather than one of the more common Point Ste. Charles cabooses rebuilt at the roads’ Montreal shop from retired 40’boxcars. These cabooses featured vertical cupola faces (instead of slanted), different smoke jack locations, and different battery and equipment box locations than there PSC counterparts. Eric Gagnon has an excellent post about the CN caboose fleet on his Trackside treasure blog here. Some elements of the photo go beyond simply a nice photo from the late 1970’s: the baggage cart, a timeless fixture at many Canadian stations for years, stands at the ready, along with a couple of children who are probably in their 50’s by now! Equally as interesting are the “tickets and information” and “baggage checked here” signs hanging from the station; present day VIA service (which does not include Barrie) is a far cry from the days of simply walking up to the station and buying a ticket for a train operating that day. Other interesting elements: ornate woodworking and windows on the station waiting room, news stand, pay phone (when was the last time you saw one of those?), station sign listing daily departures, and the semaphores (!).

Not much of the scene remains today. CN 4508 would go onto become CN 4024 after emerging from the GP9 rebuild program undertaken at the Point Ste. Charles shops in the 1980’s and 1990’s. Eventually CN 4024 was retired and after languishing at Homewood, IL, the engine was sold to National Railway Equipment where it was likely scrapped or used in a genset conversion. CN’s M420W fleet was off the roster by the late 1990’s, renumbered to the 3500’s as they were transferred to branch line service (and to make way for new GE C44-9WL’s that showed up on the roster in late 1994. The ancient reefers are certainly long gone, in all likelihood falling to the scrapper’s torch, with the same fate probably claiming the hopper and van (though there are a number of 3800 CF hoppers still in service, though not likely many with CN). Barrie now has Monday-Friday commuter service provided by GO Transit, though the station (which still stands) is not used for passenger traffic. Actually, it’s not even Barrie anymore: GO Transit calls it ‘’Allandale Waterfront GO” station. One would in fact be hard-pressed to recognize the station building these days, as it has been considerably re-worked, with new red and tan paint covering the old white-painted wood in the image above. The tracks in the foreground on which the train is resting (once part of the Newmarket subdivision) have also been removed after abandonment in 1996.

A Google satellite image reveals that the station building still stands, though the tracks on the north side have been removed. The new GO Allandale Waterfront station extends south of the original station building.  
New paint and a clay tile have given the station a completely new look. Despite the effort, it has reportedly sat vacant since 2011. Image from Google Streetview.


But for now, we can reflect back to the late 1970’s when the sun was shining and CN was still running trains through Barrie. And it even looks like I managed to complete this while it’s still Thursday!

‘Til next time,
Cheers,

Peter.