Basic Airbrush Maintenance and Cleaning Q A

Many different experience levels come and visit us here at Chinook & Hobby West to talk about Airbrushing. We also get many questions regarding Airbrushes through our social medias and by email.

We carry Paasche, Iwata and Badger currently and yes, we do promote these items. We also have general information to help all Airbrush users.

The following are some of your questions and answers we have researched for you.  If you still have questions, please email us at hobbywest@shaw.ca.



Q: Why should I use SuperLube?
A: When you’re using a substance to lubricate your airbrush needle (or trigger) you run the danger of some of that substance getting into the spray and onto your project (that’s why you only need a little bit). The question is what will happen when that greasy substance reacts with your paint. SuperLube doesn’t like to react with oil-based or water-based paints – that’s why we recommend it – we know what it will do. If you use an oil-based lube it might react with your acrylic paints (it’ll mix like oil and water).
Another suggestion is Woodland Scenic Light Gear Oil.  As with any Oil, please test your airbrush on a scrap paper or project just to ensure your oil doesn't interfere with your paint work.

Q: Why do I need to lubricate the needle?
A: The needle doesn’t really need the lube rather the needle in turn lubricates a little o-ring deep in the body of the brush that prevents blowback. It’s really rather small so it doesn’t need much lube and it only needs to be lubed every now and then.

Q: Are airbrushes hard to keep clean?
A: No, it’s quite a simple task, though it might be difficult at first. Develop a regular maintenance habit of rinsing the airbrush with the appropriate cleaning agent for the material being sprayed between color changes. Thoroughly clean your airbrush at the end of the workday. Check out the appropriate cleaning guide for your brush online or come down and see us to help you find a copy.

Q: How often should I thoroughly clean my airbrush?
A: It’s easy to say that you should clean your airbrush at the end of each workday; however, you should thoroughly clean the airbrush when the inevitable buildup of dried paint begins to interfere with normal operation. For some people this is once a week, for others, it’s once a day. It should be noted that regular and timely rinsing of wet paint with the appropriate cleaner will lengthen the amount of time between thorough cleanings. In short, rinsing more means cleaning less.

Q: How do I rinse my airbrush?
A: To rinse out the airbrush, simply flush it with the appropriate paint cleaning agent – Medea Airbrush Cleaner for water-based paints and paint thinner for oil-based paints. Never immerse or soak an entire airbrush. When using flammable cleaners never flush the airbrush near an open flame or lose electrical wiring and always flush the cleaner into an appropriate container to deal with these materials.

Q: How often should I rinse my airbrush?
A: You should rinse out the airbrush generally in-between color changes, before taking a break, and at the end of the day. Here’s why – wet materials clean up easier than dry materials. Rinse it while it’s wet and you won’t have to do a thorough cleaning as often when it’s dry. Rinsing between color changes is a maybe. If you’re blending colors and working from light to dark then chances are good that you won’t have to rinse. If you need a pure color then you will have to rinse out your airbrush.

Q: When I’m thoroughly cleaning out my airbrush why should I use a solvent?
A: Solvents quickly break up the molecular bonds paint forms when it dries. We recommend acetone or lacquer thinner as solvents, but stay away from paint thinner – paint thinner, in our experience, doesn’t seem to work well cleaning airbrushes. Do not soak your airbrush in a solvent. There are parts and greases in other areas of the airbrush that don’t take kindly to it. With that said, you should generally use only as much solvent as can be held in a cotton swab or in a pipe-cleaner. WARNING: DO NOT SPRAY SOLVENTS THROUGH THE AIRBRUSH. Bad idea, here’s why.

Q: What about Medea Airbrush Cleaner? Can I use it to clean out my airbrush instead of solvent?
A: There’s a saying-”the right tool for the right job”. Medea Airbrush Cleaner is great stuff and it works really well on wet paints and materials. Paint is a suspension of pigment in an adhesive substance. When the adhesive is wet you can wash it off with soapy water-when it is dry, you need something to dissolve the molecular bonds the adhesive creates. This is where solvents such as acetone or lacquer thinner come into play.

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Desk Cleaning Project Progress

In order to clean off my work bench, I had to finish a couple of projects. Usually one will say that other way 'round, but this week my goal is actually to clean my work area and the progress on any models is only beneficial collateral at this point.

The projects in question are two Erie paint and decal jobs. The first is an Erie scale test car kit from Walthers that is no longer available. I found this one on eBay for pretty cheap after letting several go to much higher bids than I finally got this one for. I then ordered the decals from Prime Mover Decals, and Paul sent out this plus another set of HBS 44 tonner decals for no. 700 that is already painted. The kit went together easily, and the decals went on really well. I used number 03440 which matched the style of the Walthers kit dead on (the only thing missing is a small sign board on the railing on the brake end of the car which I can easily add). I happen to have photos of two of the Erie fleet. You will notice that 03441 is of different design, and weighs only 62,000 lbs versus the 80,000 of 03440. '41 seems older, and the notes that Paul provides indicate that '03440 and '03443 were built in 1934 and were the newest for the railroad. He also notes that the wheel bearing style is different - but I can't make out what it is at this point. This can wait until it is shopped again, and I will add the signboard to the railing, too. Kadee no.5s seem to work well - I just need to weather them and paint the red around the couplers.

The Prototype

Older version? test car.

The other project is the painting and decaling of the JJLModels HH660 which is a Proto 2000 S2 epoxy resin modification kit. The only hiccup was my hood was a little bent on the end, but I've managed to almost completely straighten it out just using some heat from a soldering iron. The decals are old Champ brand, and I tore the first regular Roman "ERIE" I tried to apply - it just disintegrated - so I had to go to the alternate extended typeface which seems to match the photo I have of no. 302 at the floats at Jersey City. That was lucky.

It is a tight fit for the QSI sound decoder - 10 lbs of you know what in a 5 gallon locomotive. It is still glossy from the decal process, but the Dullcoat is on the way. The sound is great, and it is a good performer, and it is officially in the rotation for Harlem Station. Other locomotives currently in the rotation are nos.514, 529 and 417. Not all are weathered, but they are all sound equipped, which is my baseline criteria. Weathering will happen in a group sometime in the future.

None of these locomotives actually served at Harlem Station. I'm working on the ones that actually did: no.20 , a boxcab that I need to re-motor and/or just install a decoder, no.26, the now infamous Bachmann 44tonner that I can't get to play nice with either a LokSound micro or Micro Tsunami, and no.320, a Proto 2K S1 that needs to be renumbered and decoder-ized.

And situation normal, I haven't cleaned off my work bench, yet, which was my goal this week. Funny how other stuff always gets done before what is on my list. I find it hard to complain today, though, because I'm going to go fire up the HH660 and bang some cars around the harbor front at 149th St.

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Ideas for Cleaning Action Figures

From time to time we like to share articles from others that you may find interesting.
Please leave a comment on this article as to if it was helpful or not.

Cleaning

So, how does one clean a Joe? Try an old, softened toothbrush and Soft Scrub cleanser. It works miracles, and won't damage the paint if you scrub lightly. Avoid A brushing the hair, of course. -- Derryl D. DePriest

I have found that Formula 409 works very well for cleaning plastic pieces. I have also used some something called "Purple Plus Super Stuff" for cleaning pieces that are very dirty and/or stained. You can probably find it at a hardware store. It is similar to "Simple Green" which would probably work just as well. -- Chad Reed

I always do all of my Joe repair near my kitchen sink. Have paper towels and water handy at all times. I also use a toothbrush and a plastic surfaced cleansing pad for the cleaning chores. These are non-abrasive to Joe's plastic. At the sink, I start by scrubbing him with a dish washing liquid like Ivory. If he's a painted hair-scrub him all over. If he's a fuzz head-skip the head for later. Rinse him with warm water. Next, repeat the process with Soft Scrub with Bleach-going easy on the head this time. At this stage it is especially good at cleaning the hands. It makes discolored Kung Fu Grip hands look human again. Warning: scrub gently as the fingers can break very easily. After you have scrubbed him thoroughly, rinse again in warm water. Dry him off with a towel and look at the head and face. Chances are he needs a closer cleaning there. Using a cotton swab dipped in alcohol, scrub the face clean. Be sure to get behind those ears! Don't worry, unless he has been repainted with acrylics, his paint will stay put but go easy on those areas with anything stronger than dish soap. If he still needs a cleaning after that, try Formula 409 on a swab. Then, rinse the face with a wet cotton ball, removing all of the cleanser. A word about fuzzheads. I had always suggested keeping his hair dry during cleaning to avoid possible hair loss. However, a good friend of mine has had very good results by gently cleaning A.T. heads with a good quality shampoo. Finally, repeat the cleaning process with the dish washing liquid. This is an important step-it will remove any residue of the stronger cleaners which could later find their way on to uniforms. Now, rinse in warm water and dry him thoroughly. Chances are that his internal elastics have gotten wet during all this washing. You want him totally dry inside and out to avoid rusting and elastic rotting. Gently pull Joe apart at the waist and insert a pencil or chopstick between the two elastic pieces so that it keeps the torso and pelvis sections separated. Place him on a window sill in the sun or near (not on!) a radiator. Let Joe dry for at least 24 hours before you remove the pencil, checking to make sure the elastic feels dry to the touch. -- GITrooper

If you buy a set of steel armor from Cotswold, you'll have to deal with rust since it's not made from stainless steel. To keep it up, you could resort to the method that they used then - oil or continual buffing with beeswax polish. Once you've eliminated the rust (any automobile store will supply a good rust inhibitor) a good, thick coat of lacquer or polyurethane varnish should stop the rust for a couple of years. -- David Higson

CLR (known for a heavy duty cleaner that removes rust and water stains) has released a mild version that can be used on plastics, fiberglass ect. I wonder if it can be used to clean up older joes. I'm gonna give it a try on one of my vintage & I'll let you all know... -- Logoffsys

There are several products available that will help get rid of stains. I have had excellent results with Oxy 10 gel and Clearasil Maximum Strength vanishing cream. I use both. Some stains seem to respond better to one or the other - I don't know why. Use a toothpick to apply it directly to the area you want to treat. Leave on a sunny window sill if possible for 24-48 hours. Then check and see how it looks. The stain should be fading. If needed, repeat the process as many times as necessary. With patience, the stain will eventually go away, it might just take a while. There's no calling on this. Sometimes it takes one day, sometimes a month. There are some stains that will not respond to this treatment and that's when you might want to try a new product called Remove-Zit. This product is available at doll shows and directly through the manufacturer, Pine Tree Industries in Scarborough, Maine. I have had great results with this stuff on discolored heads. It works amazingly on the mold spots (the Oxy 10 and Clearasil don't seem to work on these). Be aware that the mold has already bleached the pink color out of the vinyl. So, you will be left with a slightly pale area where the spot was-but it beats green! It is very important that you read all the instructions that come with this product. Do not get it on painted areas-you will lose the paint in those areas. I have also found that sealing in a tupperware container and heat (sunny window sill or above a turned on table lamp bulb perched in the shade supports) seems to help speed up the process. Remember that all of these products contain strong chemicals that will react in some way with the vinyl. In the case of the acne creams, peroxide (a bleaching agent) is the active ingredient. The Remove-Zit works to change the chemical properties of the stain itself. Use these products with care and check the results frequently! On most stains, they will work eventually. -- GITrooper

A fellow collector friend of mine uses javex diluted with water and a q-tip. to clean stains off of deep sea diver suits . He has had good results with this method. -- Robert Hall

My 30th anniversary Joe's wet suit headpiece melted where his chain was around his neck. I used nail polish remover to get this black tar goo off. The only problem is that one has be careful not to use it on a painted area as it will take the paint off as well. It worked great on his neck, throat and chest. I am still working on the part on the back of his head (painted area). -- Robert

If you have a Joe with a melted scuba suit adhering to his body, some of the suit may be loose. Peel or flake off as much as you can. Now get out the rubber gloves. Put him in a covered roaster pan or other covered pan and coat him liberally with Easy-Off Oven Cleaning gel or foam. Cover the pan. Leave him for at least 24 hours. The rubber is an organic compound and will be broken down by the oven cleaner. The scuba suit should be easily removed with a little effort. Some of it will practically slide off and other spots may need a little scraping with a dull knife (be careful not to scratch the body plastic). Again, patience is the key here. When you have finished removing all of the old rubber, clean him thoroughly. -- GITrooper

Here is the link we found these ideas: http://www.oocities.org/pentagon/6985/joetips.htm#1

Chinook & Hobby West has not tried some of these methods, they are suggestions only. Chinook & Hobby West is not responsible for items that get damaged using these methods.

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Cleaning

My double garage has been a storage(dumping) area for years, but is slowly being cleaned to allow adequate room to complete the layout.

In regards to the layout itself, the baseboard is finished, and a raised platform for the track to run along has been mounted to the baseboard the full length. When the garage is cleaner, I will take some broader pics of the layout.
Here is a few shots with trackwork sitting loose, whilst being test fit...

                                    Above, Drivers view from the the Sydney end of the platform, with storage siding straight ahead and the mainline diverging off to the left.

                               Looking away from Sydney towards the terminal sidings. The platform will be at the left of these tracks(where the jar is).            

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Cleaning Model Trains

Cleaning model trains needs to be done from time to time, but it doesn't have to be difficult. A train left sitting on a shelf for a few years can develop a surprising amount of dust. Removing the dust can be tricky, especially on a detailed and delicate model train.

Dust

There are two good ways to remove loose dust from models, brushes and compressed air. A dry, soft-haired brush works best for gently removing dust from a model without damaging delicate details. Brush lightly, working from top to bottom. Be particularly careful around details and electrical contacts.

For getting into tight places, compressed air is a modeler's friend. You can use canned air cleaning products designed for electronics, or an airbrush. In addition to cutting costs, an airbrush allows you to regulate the pressure. Start low and work up. Air is a good alternative for getting dust out of trucks, running gear and other areas with moving parts.

Grime

For stuck-on dirt and grime, you're going to need more than just a dry brush. Use liquid cleaners very sparingly on models. Some chemicals can attack paint, decals, even plastic. Museums generally use an extremely mild (1%) solution of soap and water to clean artifacts. The same will work on models.

Apply a mild soap wash with a cloth or towel that is lightly damp. Work slowly and cautiously until you find the pressure and moisture necessary to remove the dirt and only the dirt.

Cotton bud sticks work well and make sure not to use a soap that is 'Gentle on Hands' it will put more residue on your project. These are tighter wound and won't leave lint behind like Q-tips.

Wheels and Electrical Pickups

Dust and grime on the piece may ruin a model's appearance, but the same dirt can destroy its operation if it coats the electrical contacts. Left unchecked long enough, dirt build-up on wheels can even cause a derailment.

For normal cleaning, soaking a paper towel in liquid cleaner works well. Place the towel on a track and drag cars back and forth, pressing down lightly. For locomotives, clean one truck at a time, keeping the other truck off the towel on the tracks for electrical pick-up. To clean while you play, try some of these easy-to-make passive wheel cleaners.

For heavy dirt build-up on wheels, a small flat-head screwdriver or hobby knife can be used to gently peel off the grime.

Don't forget electrical contacts inside the trucks as well. It may be necessary to partially disassemble the trucks to get to the contacts. Clean the backs of wheels and the metal contacts gently with liquid cleaner. Blow any dust out of gearboxes and wheels as well.

While you've got the trucks apart to clean wheels and contacts, take one more moment to re-lubricate. A small drop of light oil in the journals on freight and passenger cars, and a compatible grease in gearboxes will reduce friction and noise. A little is all you need.

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