Ipinapakita ang mga post na may etiketa na Airbrush. Ipakita ang lahat ng mga post
Ipinapakita ang mga post na may etiketa na Airbrush. Ipakita ang lahat ng mga post

Lunes, Enero 30, 2017

Basic Airbrush Maintenance and Cleaning Q A



Many different experience levels come and visit us here at Chinook & Hobby West to talk about Airbrushing. We also get many questions regarding Airbrushes through our social medias and by email.

We carry Paasche, Iwata and Badger currently and yes, we do promote these items. We also have general information to help all Airbrush users.

The following are some of your questions and answers we have researched for you.  If you still have questions, please email us at hobbywest@shaw.ca.



Q: Why should I use SuperLube?
A: When you’re using a substance to lubricate your airbrush needle (or trigger) you run the danger of some of that substance getting into the spray and onto your project (that’s why you only need a little bit). The question is what will happen when that greasy substance reacts with your paint. SuperLube doesn’t like to react with oil-based or water-based paints – that’s why we recommend it – we know what it will do. If you use an oil-based lube it might react with your acrylic paints (it’ll mix like oil and water).
Another suggestion is Woodland Scenic Light Gear Oil.  As with any Oil, please test your airbrush on a scrap paper or project just to ensure your oil doesn't interfere with your paint work.

Q: Why do I need to lubricate the needle?
A: The needle doesn’t really need the lube rather the needle in turn lubricates a little o-ring deep in the body of the brush that prevents blowback. It’s really rather small so it doesn’t need much lube and it only needs to be lubed every now and then.




Q: Are airbrushes hard to keep clean?
A: No, it’s quite a simple task, though it might be difficult at first. Develop a regular maintenance habit of rinsing the airbrush with the appropriate cleaning agent for the material being sprayed between color changes. Thoroughly clean your airbrush at the end of the workday. Check out the appropriate cleaning guide for your brush online or come down and see us to help you find a copy.

Q: How often should I thoroughly clean my airbrush?
A: It’s easy to say that you should clean your airbrush at the end of each workday; however, you should thoroughly clean the airbrush when the inevitable buildup of dried paint begins to interfere with normal operation. For some people this is once a week, for others, it’s once a day. It should be noted that regular and timely rinsing of wet paint with the appropriate cleaner will lengthen the amount of time between thorough cleanings. In short, rinsing more means cleaning less.

Q: How do I rinse my airbrush?
A: To rinse out the airbrush, simply flush it with the appropriate paint cleaning agent – Medea Airbrush Cleaner for water-based paints and paint thinner for oil-based paints. Never immerse or soak an entire airbrush. When using flammable cleaners never flush the airbrush near an open flame or lose electrical wiring and always flush the cleaner into an appropriate container to deal with these materials.
Q: How often should I rinse my airbrush?
A: You should rinse out the airbrush generally in-between color changes, before taking a break, and at the end of the day. Here’s why – wet materials clean up easier than dry materials. Rinse it while it’s wet and you won’t have to do a thorough cleaning as often when it’s dry. Rinsing between color changes is a maybe. If you’re blending colors and working from light to dark then chances are good that you won’t have to rinse. If you need a pure color then you will have to rinse out your airbrush.




Q: When I’m thoroughly cleaning out my airbrush why should I use a solvent?
A: Solvents quickly break up the molecular bonds paint forms when it dries. We recommend acetone or lacquer thinner as solvents, but stay away from paint thinner – paint thinner, in our experience, doesn’t seem to work well cleaning airbrushes. Do not soak your airbrush in a solvent. There are parts and greases in other areas of the airbrush that don’t take kindly to it. With that said, you should generally use only as much solvent as can be held in a cotton swab or in a pipe-cleaner. WARNING: DO NOT SPRAY SOLVENTS THROUGH THE AIRBRUSH. Bad idea, here’s why.
Q: What about Medea Airbrush Cleaner? Can I use it to clean out my airbrush instead of solvent?
A: There’s a saying-”the right tool for the right job”. Medea Airbrush Cleaner is great stuff and it works really well on wet paints and materials. Paint is a suspension of pigment in an adhesive substance. When the adhesive is wet you can wash it off with soapy water-when it is dry, you need something to dissolve the molecular bonds the adhesive creates. This is where solvents such as acetone or lacquer thinner come into play.



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Lunes, Hunyo 15, 2015

Basic Airbrush Q A



Many different experience levels come and visit us here at Chinook & Hobby West to talk about Airbrushing. We also get many questions regarding Airbrushes through our social medias and by email.

We carry Paasche, Iwata and Badger currently and yes, we do promote these items. We also have general information to help all Airbrush users.

The following are some of your questions and answers we have researched for you.  If you still have questions, please email us at hobbywest@shaw.ca.

Airbrush Classes for Beginner to Expert
Email us for Class list



Q: What is an airbrush?
A: An airbrush is a small, air-operated tool that sprays fluid (paint, ink, dye, stain, glaze, etc.). It resembles, and is held like, a pen. It applies paint through a process known as atomization.


Q: What's atomization?
A: An airbrush takes a fluid and turns it into a directed airborne mist. You can think of it as a sophisticated perfume atomizer or as a controllable spray paint can.


Q: How does an airbrush work?
A: The airbrush must be attached to an air source to spray. Airbrushes have two systems that must work together to function properly. The air system provides energy for the atomization of the fluid. The fluid system delivers the paint to the tip of the airbrush to be atomized and sprayed onto a surface.


Q: What type of airbrush is best for me?
A: This depends on your desired application. Most airbrush users today use single- or dual-action, internal mix airbrushes because they offer the most control and the finest of sprays. However, single-action, external mix airbrushes are very popular for hobby and craft applications, the spraying of ceramic glazes or high viscosity materials, or where cost is a factor. (They are generally less expensive.)

Q: What is the difference between internal-mix and external-mix?
A: In an internal-mix airbrush, the air and paint mix inside the paint tip. This produces a thorough atomization or mixing, which results in a very soft, fine spray pattern. In an external-mix airbrush, the air and paint mix outside the tip, producing a coarse spray pattern.


Q: Why are there different size tips for the airbrush?
A: Nozzle sizes are differentiated by tenths and sometimes hundredths of millimeters. The different sizes allow for finer or coarser paint (how finely the paint pigment is ground up) while trading off between finer and coarser lines and spray patterns. The line sizes are relative within the Iwata product line. A practiced hand and deft touch can accomplish some amazing lines and effects with a .5mm nozzle on the Eclipse or Revolution series airbrushes.


Q: What types of surfaces can be worked on?
A: All surfaces can be airbrushed, paper, canvas, plastic, metal, glass, wood, leather, skin, etc. The key is to insure the proper preparation of the surface prior to spraying and its compatibility with the sprayed material.


Q: What kinds of paint can I use with the airbrush?
A: All paints, oils, acrylics, watercolors, automotive paints, enamels, alkyds, etc., are sprayable as long as they are thinned to a consistency, like light cream, that enables them to flow easily through the airbrush. However, if you're just learning how to paint with an airbrush consider buying airbrush ready paints then you can focus on improving your technique rather than worrying about whether or not your paint is going to clog the airbrush.






We have two great Airbrush DVDs that can help you with your technique.  We also have informative books and brochures and if we do not have your replacement parts in stock, we can order them.




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Thank you for checking out our Blog.  Please visit our Website, Facebook and Newsletters.



Biyernes, Agosto 15, 2014

Airbrush Terms


Hi all; Sorry Monday was supposed to be Trains, and the schedule got 'derailed'. Will do better, promise. So we are going to go right to Wednesday: Models. (Although today's post can be used for trains too)

Today as per our website www.chinookandhobbywest.com, we are talking about Airbrush Terms. On our site we shared the difference between Single Action and Dual Action airbrushes. See our Hobby Talk page on our website if you haven't read it.

The MIX regarding airbrushes, refers to the way air and paint come together or 'atomize' while airbrushing. Airbrushes spray a series of dots (atomised material).
External Mix - air and paint mix outside the airbrush resulting in a coarse round spray pattern. This is preferred for larger surface coverage and volume spray applications.
Internal Mix - air and paint mix inside the airbrush creating a precisely atomised 'fine dot' spray pattern. This is preferred for precision finishing needs, like colour graduation, shading and fine lines.


The FEED refers to the place of entry and manner the paint enters the airbrush.
Bottom Feed - the paint enters through a syphon tube or colour cup attached to the bottom of the airbrush. This type of airbrush should have at least 18 PSI while spraying to operate properly.  This is best used for general purpose. It uses the paint without having to frequently fill the cup.  It also allows the artist to work at a faster pace when desired.
Gravity Feed - the paint enters at the top of the airbrush through a tip mounted colour reservoir.  Gravity draws the material in to airbrush.  This airbrush can be operated a as low as 8 PSI.  This one allows the artist to slow down as gravity pulls the paint into the airbrush to improve the control of the airbrush.  This makes it easier to do finer detail work as the finishing process can be done at a more deliberate pace.  This is best for detail airbrushing.
Side Feed - the paint enters at the side of the airbrush through a side attached colour cup. This airbrush operates best at about 12 PSI.  The swivel side cup allows more flexibility for airbrushing if difficult to reach areas or on contoured pieces.  This is great for detail work because the side feed cup eliminates any sight line obstruction to the needle tip when doing 'close in' intricate detailing.
Dual Feed - this airbrush can be used as either gravity feed or bottom feed depending on your varying application needs. This type of airbrush is exclusive to Badger Air-Brush Co.


PSI - Pressure per square inch, the measurement of the level of air pressure.

Nozzle Sizes - There are so many choices for spraying and each has some effect on the line an airbrush produces. Nozzle sizes (Fine, Medium, Heavy or 1, 3 and 5) refer more to the paint sprayed through the airbrush than the fineness of line produced.  The fineness of the line is determined by many factors - nozzle size, needle's linear air flow angel, pigment ratio of paint, pigment size, operating pressure, etc.  NOTE: you must have the correct nozzle/needle size with the right paint for optimum airbrush performance.

Fine/1: sprays thin, low viscosity inks, water colours, dyes, stains, etc.
Medium/3: The most popular; sprays airbrush ready paints, properly thinned acrylics, lacquers, enamels and special applications such as tanning solutions, body paints, food airbrushing colours, etc.
Heavy/5: Best for heavily pigmented and high viscosity mediums such as glazes, gesso, latex and varnish.