Huwebes, Abril 30, 2015

Time spent on building the layout Youll be surprised!


Read an article the other day on the time it takes to build a layout.  I cannot remember just where I read it but it was probably on a blog somewhere.  It talked about the time it takes to build a layout. It had a lot of great points but I wanted to put my touch on it so here it is!  Now of course we know that layouts come in all shapes and sizes.  A basement empire is going to take longer than say my small room sized layout.  I have broken down the different stages into percents of time spent on each.  So lets go through a build and see where most of your time is spent.  Let's start from the beginning:

Planning:  Most of us are always planning and if you are like me, your even planning after you think all your track work is done.  Starting on a new layout, most know what railroad they want to model and finding that space is always the hardest part.  Once you find that room or basement, the planning is in full gear.  The internet provides more info on specifics than we could ever imagine.
10%

Benchwork:  This is usually a quick weekend or two.  Once you know your space and what you want to do, it's time to hit your Home Depot or Lowe's.  Lumber is not cheap these days but is a necessary thing to support our empire.  You will be making several trips here over the years so get used to it.  I love to go to my local Home Depot!
10%

Track work and Electrical:  This is the most important step in the whole process.  Good track work and electrical wiring will save you lots of time in the end.  Try to only wire the track and maybe signals. Electrical turnouts can be hand thrown so this could save you time especially if you have a bunch of turnouts.  Labeling/color coding your wires will definitely help if you have problems later on.
15%

This is the point where a lot of layouts stop.  Because of the simple fact that you can run your trains and that was most of what we wanted to accomplish.  Scenery and build structures are difficult and most have never attempted them.  Maybe the structures.  We tend to keep adding locos and freight cars instead of the obvious.  So the first three categories are complete and we are up to only 35%!

Structures:  These are the life blood of our railroads yet a lot of time can be spent on these.  A lot of modelers even have someone else build them for them because so much time can be spent on them. Mike Confalone is one of these and we see how great his railroad is.  Walther's kits can save time but your layout should not look like the Walther's catalog.  I'm even guilty to a certain degree. I think 80% of us modelers have the Walther's grain elevator. I plan on one day going back and changing that elevator a bit.  It's a good stand in now.   Slight changes to these types of kits or scratch building is a great way to make your railroad look unique.
25%

Scenery: This is the one everyone likes to avoid.  We are all scared we will mess it up.  That's part of life!  When I first started doing scenery, I thought of it as making a pizza. Start at the dough (base) add glue (sauce) and add toppings!  I've noticed my scenery gets better the more I do it.  Scenery Express items are recommended over Woodland Scenics.  I have used both, but SE just looks better!
30%

Weathering:  This category is a lot like scenery, people are terrified of it.  We don't want to mess up a $30 freight car or a $200 locomotive.  This is a must for any realistic layout.  For me, nothing is worse than seeing a beautiful layout complete with shiny freight cars and locomotives   Even a quick shot of Dullcote is better than nothing.  Don't forget to weather the structures too!
10%

In closing, we can see that most of your time will be taken up on scenery and building the structures. I'm at that point now on my layout.  I have several structures to build on my layout including a new grain elevator (Walthers no less!), a depot, country store and farmhouse.  I could have been done on my layout a couple of years ago but I decided to add my lower level.  So this whole process started over.  Hope I helped you put your time into perspective and remember every minute counts and I didn't even count distractions!  That's another topic for another day!  Happy Modeling!





Miyerkules, Abril 29, 2015

Slug o


Erie no.B25, a slug, photographed probably sometime in 1968. Collection of author.
Remnants of Erie boxcab unit no.25, this slug sits in a yard in this fairly unremarkable photograph. So why bother to post it?

The photo and the transformation of a boxcab to a yard slug suggest a way of operating a model railroad. Instead of trying to create a layout that is a snapshot of a railroad at a particular time and place, how about creating a layout that is maybe more like a film or a book about the railroad?

This photo suggests to me that a different understanding of a railroad can be had from including the time element in the presentation of a railroad during one operating session or over the course of an extended amount of time. Taking the extended time frame first, a series of operating sessions could start in one year, move to another year the next session, and so on at each significant point in the railroad's history. Choose early and late in history for a stark contrast between steam and diesels and types of cargo and amount of traffic, or present it in a slowly evolving narrative picking up on nuances of logo changes, yard track arrangements, evolution of weathered structures, and to our photo above, the transformation of a locomotive from a rather elegant boxcab one session to an unglamorous yard slug the next.

Doing this in a short time frame like one evening's operating session would be akin to watching a documentary on the railroad, and it would lead to a much different presentation, obviously, but more importantly, to a much different understanding of the railroad by its operators. I think this idea has some legs - or at least some traction motors.


Build or Buy


I work as a software engineer for a major pharmaceutical company; our group develops applications for chemists and research scientists of many disciplines. When we are approached by a research team or department to address a potential new challenge, one of the first questions we ask ourselves before lifting a finger is, do we build it, or buy it?

It's hard to know the right answer, because there is usually a long list of pros and cons for either approach. Generally speaking, buying has the potential of bringing a project to completion in weeks instead of months, but it requires a substantial capital outlay, and the project may still get bogged down with customizations required to get the application into a form suitable for the users. Building has the potential of providing an application that precisely suits the users' needs, but it might come at an expense of effort measured in man-years; we might also lack the internal talent required to deliver certain highly specialized solutions.

Perhaps not surprisingly, model railroaders face the same issues when it comes to creating our layouts. Do we build our models, or buy them?



Building a model is naturally very satisfying. And it results in something unique, something that will not be found on any other layout. Even before construction begins, though, a substantial time investment is necessary in order to research both the actual object as well as the model construction materials and techniques. It may also require skills that not everyone possesses, so it may not be an option for some of us.

Buying a model provides instant gratification and accelerates layout-building, allowing us to reach a satisfying level of completion earlier, leaving us more time to operate and enjoy our layouts. Also, being less emotionally attached to our models frees us to experiment more, to move or replace them in order to try different approaches.

Most modelers strike a balance and do both: it's impractical (or impossible) for many to scratchbuild locomotives and rolling stock. Indeed, it's safe to say that the vast majority of modelers buy their rolling stock: there would otherwise not be so much discussion (sometimes rather heated) at online forums over the accuracy of commercial locomotives and such.

Just as it is in the business world, though, time is every bit a commodity as materials. Scratchbuilding is of course more economical than buying kits or built-ups from a materials standpoint, but one must also factor in the time involved. These days, with time being a key factor in both my work and hobby budgets, I'm inclined to look at my modeling effort as an investment. That $20 kit might only represent $5 of materials if scratchbuilt, but it might take $100 of my time to scratchbuild it. Another business parallel is the Return on Investment (ROI) angle: will it be worth the effort to scratchbuild certain mundane detail items when perfectly adequate kits exist?



Lately, as I attempt to squeeze in a few precious minutes of modeling here and there in my crazy-busy schedule, I face the build or buy question almost continuously. As is the case for my work, I much prefer to build because it is far more satisfying, and I get exactly what I want (more or less, depending on skill and a bit of luck). But when my modeling progress can be measured in inches per year instead of feet, I must stop and think hard about striking a compromise in order to achieve my goals in a more realistic timeline. Yes, I realize that others will recognize nearly every building in my model town, and this will not accurately reflect my true desires or skills as a modeler. But at least I have a town, which would not be the case if I built everything from scratch.

For the time being, buying rather than building is a stop-gap measure, a means to cut to the chase and get up and running more quickly. I know that when I retire, all of the business-like time/cost factors will go away; I will be able to kick back and spend large blocks of time modeling at a leisurely pace, and I will almost always build before I buy, no question.

But I'd still like to be able to run a train through a landscape populated by buildings and scenery before I retire! So, out comes the plastic, and to the web stores I go a-shopping. (I like to further justify this approach by thinking that my relatively tiny contribution helps to support the growth of the industry...)

Thankfully, those of us who choose to buy—whatever our reasons—know that we are perhaps enjoying the "golden years" of model railroading right now. Never before has there been such a bountiful crop of quality goods. For some, it's the only way they will be able to enjoy a layout right now; for others, it's the only way to enjoy a layout at all.

Martes, Abril 28, 2015

Final Track Plan in HO Scale for the HOG


Here is the final track plan for the HOG in HO scale.  

Click to Enlarge

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Lunes, Abril 27, 2015

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Cleaning Model Trains


Cleaning model trains needs to be done from time to time, but it doesn't have to be difficult. A train left sitting on a shelf for a few years can develop a surprising amount of dust. Removing the dust can be tricky, especially on a detailed and delicate model train.
Dust
There are two good ways to remove loose dust from models, brushes and compressed air. A dry, soft-haired brush works best for gently removing dust from a model without damaging delicate details. Brush lightly, working from top to bottom. Be particularly careful around details and electrical contacts.
For getting into tight places, compressed air is a modeler's friend. You can use canned air cleaning products designed for electronics, or an airbrush. In addition to cutting costs, an airbrush allows you to regulate the pressure. Start low and work up. Air is a good alternative for getting dust out of trucks, running gear and other areas with moving parts.

Grime
For stuck-on dirt and grime, you're going to need more than just a dry brush. Use liquid cleaners very sparingly on models. Some chemicals can attack paint, decals, even plastic. Museums generally use an extremely mild (1%) solution of soap and water to clean artifacts. The same will work on models.
Apply a mild soap wash with a cloth or towel that is lightly damp. Work slowly and cautiously until you find the pressure and moisture necessary to remove the dirt and only the dirt.
Cotton bud sticks work well and make sure not to use a soap that is 'Gentle on Hands' it will put more residue on your project. These are tighter wound and won't leave lint behind like Q-tips.

Wheels and Electrical Pickups
Dust and grime on the piece may ruin a model's appearance, but the same dirt can destroy its operation if it coats the electrical contacts. Left unchecked long enough, dirt build-up on wheels can even cause a derailment.
For normal cleaning, soaking a paper towel in liquid cleaner works well. Place the towel on a track and drag cars back and forth, pressing down lightly. For locomotives, clean one truck at a time, keeping the other truck off the towel on the tracks for electrical pick-up. To clean while you play, try some of these easy-to-make passive wheel cleaners.
For heavy dirt build-up on wheels, a small flat-head screwdriver or hobby knife can be used to gently peel off the grime.

Don't forget electrical contacts inside the trucks as well. It may be necessary to partially disassemble the trucks to get to the contacts. Clean the backs of wheels and the metal contacts gently with liquid cleaner. Blow any dust out of gearboxes and wheels as well.
While you've got the trucks apart to clean wheels and contacts, take one more moment to re-lubricate. A small drop of light oil in the journals on freight and passenger cars, and a compatible grease in gearboxes will reduce friction and noise. A little is all you need.


Source: 

Huwebes, Abril 23, 2015

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Miyerkules, Abril 22, 2015

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Linggo, Abril 19, 2015

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Sabado, Abril 18, 2015

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Biyernes, Abril 17, 2015

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Huwebes, Abril 16, 2015

2014 Mid Atlantic RPM Meet this past weekend


Sorry no updates on the layout in this post but I do have several pictures from the Mid Atlantic RPM meet.   


My pictures are only from Friday's models that were displayed. I did not get the chance to get more pictures on Saturday. I'm a co-founder and overall it was a great meet in our second year. Over 250 models displayed and 18 dioramas/structures were displayed. 

http://www.pbase.com/vamidlandrr/2014_mid_atlantic_rpm_meet_fredericksburg_va

Miyerkules, Abril 15, 2015

Helix operational video


As promised, a video of the helix in operation.  I now have to get cracking on the lower level track.  I'll update with a post by Sunday.



Decaling overload motive power update and continuous running


This week has mainly been getting 2 new locomotives onto the layout and getting some needed freight cars onto the layout.  The Mine Run branch is complete, or is it?  Thinking about putting in a lift out portion of track to connect the lower level at Orange and Mine Run for continuous running.  Not sure on it yet and this would change Orange a little.    Lets get to the locomotives:
Here is VMID GP40-2W in fresh paint.  She will receive the newer logo and will be weathered.  Her number will be #288.

The new SW1200 for the VC has received her paint and now waits for decals during my decal purge today.

My decaling tools of the trade.

My many sets of decals.  Boxed up and unorganized!

More progress on the decaling.  The SW1200 has her logo.  Patching and reporting marks were the main thing today.

Alot of work on this chip hopper.  Even did a VMID ortner Ex-SP.

VMID #288 is nearing the end of her decaling job. 

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Martes, Abril 14, 2015

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Linggo, Abril 12, 2015

Valley Forge RPM Meet this weekend


I will be attending the Valley Forge RPM Meet this weekend up near Philadelphia, PA this weekend.  I was planning on attending since Christmas but my hospital visit in January nixed that.  Norm Wolf called me about a month ago and wanted to see if I wanted to go.  He had reservations for him and his wife but she had something come up.  So I do get to go up there after all.  Looking forward to attending as a guess.  Our RPM meet in the Fall is a lot of work and you don't get to socialize as much as you would like.  Looking forward to seeing friends of this great hobby and just getting away for a few days!

2016 Valley Forge RPM Meet


Our RPM meet: Sept 30th and Oct. 1st
2016 Mid-Atlantic RPM Meet

Sabado, Abril 11, 2015

1955 HBS Track Plan


From the HBS Real Estate Report, 1955 in collection of author.
Enlarged view of HBS Yard
This track plan is kind of buried in the HBS Report, so I thought I would post here for Bruce, Mark and all the folks following their Hoboken Shore layout construction at Railroad Line Forums. The enlarged view shows the location of the double slip switches in the conversation. There is a nice post on page three of that thread which has images of a brochure probably from the 60s.

Nice Model train plan


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Biyernes, Abril 10, 2015

Awesome pics video from yesterday and TBT August 25th 2016



Yesterday, My two sons and I headed due north up to my favorite hobby shop:
Mainline Hobby

It's a long drive but always worth it.  As usual, we do some railfanning along the way.  The Maryland Midland interchanges in the area of the hobby shop which is located in Blue Ridge Summit, PA.  The name is where I got my name for my HO empire.  I've been coming up here for 15 years and one of the first time I did, I stumbled upon the Maryland Midland.  The paint has changed recently but they represented what I wanted in a railroad.  I railfanned them alot over the years and knew the line like the palm of my hand. We lucked out as we found them in Thurmont, MD as we were heading up.  The chase was on once I saw this lashup!:



FIVE Emds on the head end?  Must have a big train.  Turns out that it had 54 loaded cement cars and 2 boxcars for the run up the Catoctin Mountains.


2006 lashup

2016 lashup


Traffic Lights Part I


Completed scratch built HO scale model railroad traffic light
The same day I was putting the final touches on my Northern Light & Power kit, my little box full of green, yellow, and red 2mm LEDs arrived in my mailbox from eBay, thus kicking-off the start of my next project: traffic lights! I have two ‘T’ intersections on my layout’s road system, both of which I wanted to be controlled with traffic lights. I wasn’t satisfied with many of the commercially-available light systems that are available in my area, as most were un-realistic and far out of scale, not to mention expensive. The ones I did like however, wouldn’t fit correctly on my roads as I had built them slightly too narrow.

Faced with the issue of cost and adaptability, I decided to attempt my hand at building my own traffic lights. I had previously built my own trackside signals (see here), so I figured traffic lights would be quite similar, even though I wanted to build these a bit more to a prototypical scale size then the trackside signals. My model street lights are based on a common North American style with a curved light standard which holds the traffic lights horizontally over each controlled lane of traffic.

Styrene traffic light face plates with light shadesStyrene traffic light face plates with light shades

I started by cutting the face plate for each traffic light from thin styrene sheet, then carefully drilled 3 – 2mm holes in each face plate, spacing each hole 1/8” apart (center to center). For the lens shades, I used a single hole punch to punch out round pieces from very thin styrene. I cut the styrene disk back 2mm from its edge, trimmed each pointy edge, and shaped each piece by gently rolling it between my fingers until it had the correct curve to fit over each LED. I was able to make 2 shades from each styrene disk. I then glued 3 of these directly above each hole on the face plate.

Traffic light face plates painted flat blackTraffic light face plates painted flat black

I masked the backside of each face plate, and sprayed the front flat back, figuring that it would probably be easier to paint these prior to installing the lights. I masked the back side to prevent paint from getting on this area, which would need to be removed anyways when it came to gluing the LEDs to the face plate. I then counted out 6 LEDs in each colour (red, yellow, green) and tested each one with a resistor and power supply to ensure each one worked.

3/36” copper tubing cut to 4” lengthsBending copper tubing 1” from one end

For the light standards, I used 3/32” diameter copper tubing, which I cut into 4” sections. I cut the sections at 4” so I had extra length to insert into the pilot holes in my layout when it comes to installing these. I needed to thread 4 wire leads through each, so the wires needed to be quite thin. I found an old computer hard drive ATA cable, which is comprised of several dozen very thin insulated wires, so I cut this up and saved the wire leads. I then threaded 4 wires through each copper tube, one for the green, yellow, red LEDs, and common ground. There were only 3 colours of wire however (red, blue, and white), so I just used a second white, marking it with a black sharpie for use as the common connection.

Four thin wire leads threaded through each copper tube supportCopper tube supports ready for traffic light installation

Once the wire leads were threaded through each copper tube, I bent the top of each tube to an almost 90 degree angle about 1” from the one end. I bent the curve over a thick marker container to keep the curve uniform and round. It’s also very important to make sure that the wire leads are pre-installed in the copper tubes, as the tube needs the internal support when bending. Without the wire leads inside, the copper tube would simply collapse and kink.

2mm red, green, and yellow LEDs glued to the back of each traffic light face plateLEDs on backside of face plate with anode (+) connection on top

By this time, the paint on the front of the face plates had dried, and it was time to install the LEDs. I first cut off the long connectors to each LED with flush cutters, leaving only a small portion protruding from the back of each LED. I then glued each LED with CA to the back of the face plates, making sure the anode (+) connection on each LED was on the top position. You can distinguish what side is the anode connection on most LEDs from the curved profile on the base of the LED itself. The cathode (-) side is flat and squared off, and the actual connection lead itself is usually shorter than the anode.

Soldering the common connection to the cathode (-) on all LEDs together

Now for the fun part; soldering the connections to the LEDs. I used a small cardboard box which I cut a notch into for the front of the faceplate to fit into for support. The common (-) connection was the first one that I made. For this, I used one of the metal leads that I had originally cut off of the LEDs, spanning it across and soldering it to all three cathode connections on the LEDs.

Soldering the wire leads to the anode (+) on each LEDCompleted connections to each LED on back side of traffic light

For the controlled (+) connections, I carefully soldered each wire lead from the copper tube supports to the anode on each LED. I soldered the red wire to the red LED, the blank white wire to the yellow, and the blue one to the greed LED for each traffic light. The other white wire, which I previously marked with a black sharpie, was soldered to one end of the common connection. When soldering the wires, I made a point of positioning each wire so it would easily exit off to one side of the traffic light (the side facing the support column). This made the back of each street light look a lot less cluttered and easy to work with.

Back side of unpainted traffic lightBack side of traffic light painted with black enamel paint

Once all connections were made, I gently and carefully (and I stress the gentle part), pulled the wire leads at the base of the copper tube supports, slowly bringing each traffic light closer to the support column. After I had positioned each traffic light right up against the copper tube supports, I adjusted each light so it was positioned level to the ground when positioned upright. The wires provided enough rigidity that no glue was required to fasten the lights to the support column. I then painted the back side of each light, including the connections and face plate, with 3-5 coats of black enamel paint, making sure I put on enough coats that no light was visible from the back of the traffic lights when lit.

Front face of scratch built traffic lightCompleted scratch built HO scale model railroad traffic light

The final step was to paint the copper support columns an aluminum colour, for which I used Humbrol metallic aluminum enamel. With the traffic lights now complete, they only now need to be installed and connected to a traffic light controller on my layout. I am currently exploring a couple of options for controllers, including building my own. That will all however be in my Traffic Lights – Part II post, which will hopefully be up sometime this summer. For now, I will return back to my current task of building more trees.

Completed scratch built HO scale model railroad traffic light