Miyerkules, Hunyo 29, 2016
Piranha plant - super mario wiki, the mario encyclopedia, The piranha plants returned in super mario bros.: the lost levels, which was the sequel to super mario bros. in japan, during the second conquest of the.
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Mostly Wordless Wednesday Erie 19
"Bronx Terminal, 1956" Anscochrome slide. |
Martes, Hunyo 28, 2016
Next topic Kato ho train sets
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Linggo, Hunyo 26, 2016
My Favourite Trains By Robby Gale
This post is from the view point of a 10 year old boy fascinated by Model Railroading and Railfanning.
Mikado Locomotive |
The Mikado steam locomotive was owned by many different rail way companies. Her are just some of the companies that owned this fine locomotive. Canadian National, Canadian Pacific, Union Pacific, Santa Fe, Pennsylvania and other fine railways.
This engine is quite big but it is an extremely useful one. The bigger the locomotive the stronger the locomotive.
When steam was in service (like the diesels today ) they were often freight pullers.
Russian Locomotive |
The Russian Locomotive was a pretty big locomotive. Its wheel combination is a 2-10-0 a locomotive built to pull about 20 freight trains across Canada. The railway companies that owned these locomotives are Canadian National, Union Pacific, Eerie, and Pennsylvania.
Big Boy Locomotive |
The Big Boy Locomotive is one of the Giants of the West. They were built to pull big, heavy freight trains across North America. The wheel combination is a 4-8-8-4. One drive-wheel is seven feet tall.
The Railway companies that owned these engines are Union Pacific, Pennsylvania, Santa Fe, Great Northern, and Milwaukee Roads. Each one looked a little different.
Tram Car |
The Tram (or Trolley Car) was invented in 1900. It was invented for two reasons, one was for a smoother ride to transport people and the other was to make less work for the people who had to build the railway.
Tram Cars ran on railways called road lines. This made less work for the workers because when they built the road, all they had to do was put rails in the road, make two flange spaces and power poles along the side. Or they put a third rail down the center and made the third rail electric.
These Tram Cars were small but useful. Now C-trains and subways have taken their place.
The Subway |
The Subway system was built in approx 1867. They became popular in the 1970's because, most of the passenger railway companies had gone out of business or stopped their passenger trains because they were not making enough money. The only railway that was permitting passenger travel at the time was AMTRAK. A popular railway with only passenger travel.
It still only does passenger trains today. They are also participating in the subway business. The subway transit is located in New York, The Cordillera and many other busy city's in North and South America.
All of the drawings on this page are original line drawings by Robby. Robby works at Chinook & Hobby West on Friday afternoons and loves to talk to anyone about Model Railroading and Trains. He has been studying Trains since he was 4 years old.
For more info on these locomotives, click the titles below.
Please comment on this post and let us know what you thought.
- Mikado Locomotives
- Russian Locomotives
- Big Boy Locomotives
- Tram Car
- The Subway
Chinook & Hobby West
Where The Fun Begins!
South:
5011 Macleod Tr. SW
Calgary, AB T2G 0A9
PH- 403-243-1997
hobbywest@shaw.ca
Don't Forget To Join Our Collectors Club! http://www.chinookandhobbywest.com/collectors-club.html
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Sabado, Hunyo 25, 2016
Track laying
I was able to make progress on track laying this weekend. Main line from yard past Bethlehem Steel to car float yard in. Also got track into Maxwell House and American Can.
Coming out of west side of yard.
Car float yard skeleton is in.
Maxwell House and American Can.
West yard crossing.
Yard ladder.
Bigger picture of the chaos.
Quick Photo Im starting to like the town side of the layout
While shooting some photos of the mech reefers to show off on the Railwire Weathering Forum, I decided to take this grabber of 7883 posed on the team track on the town side of my current layout.
I was alway very nervous about getting this side of the layout right, but shots like this are starting to make me feel like I'm at least headed in the right direction.
Biyernes, Hunyo 24, 2016
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Huwebes, Hunyo 23, 2016
A little write up about me in the 2015 Winter edition of the Potomac Flyer
Did a interview for the Potomac Division of the NMRA for their upcoming Potomac Flyer publication that comes out four times a year.
NMRA Potomac Division Website
On the left click on Potomac Flyer and then click on Winter 2015. My article is on page 21. This a good publication and has lots of good articles.
I want to thank Roger Sekera who contacted me and did a great write up. Also wanted to thank Norm Wolf on the thoughtful quote.
Miyerkules, Hunyo 22, 2016
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Its October already
Don't know where the month of September went but it's gone until next year. I did have the Mid-Atlantic RPM meet in the middle of the month and that was a great time. Modeling has generally taken a back seat to the busyness of life lately. Coaching another sport starting in the middle of November does not leave a lot of time to do much in the future either. I'm also beginning to write my first article for a magazine on my layout. More on this at a later time. I have had sometime to do a few things but I've been lazy, I'm preferring the recliner to the the work desk in the evenings! Hopefully I can shake that this month.
Here is a ice machine I picked up from Nick and Nora Designs at the RPM meet. |
And here's one on the layout. A must fro a crew shelter. |
Here a prototype hopper from the VC based on a picture. The car is based on one from the 30's., (Pic below) |
VC prototype hopper |
Here's a VC boxcar based on a prototype pic. The car is close but not totally correct. I have had the decals custom done. Let me know if you want to purchase some. |
Finally added some logs to my pulpwood car. The logs are azalea bush twigs. They are nice to work with because they are mainly straight. Sorry for the blurry picture. |
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Lunes, Hunyo 20, 2016
That Photo of No 26 I Promised
I finally got the older photo of Erie no.26 scanned (the previous one had merger Erie-Lackawanna herald).
I like the detail of the steel tanks on the walkway. Also note the cloth flap at the front grill - I assume to keep the engine warm on bitter Northeastern nights. There also appears to be a cloth awning to provide some shade to the engineer when he hangs his head out the window. Got some detail projects now.
Voice on the River
In collection of author |
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My dad like Ho train set mountains maybe this post Make me almost know more to process the work though Sabado, Hunyo 18, 2016
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Miyerkules, Hunyo 15, 2016
Getting Started With Milliput
Getting Started With Milliput
The two sticks have a long shelf life but once mixed the resultant putty is at first soft and highly adhesive and then gradually hardens. Speed of hardening is dependant on temperature and at normal temperatures (20-25ºC) Milliput becomes rock hard in three to four hours. By the application of heat the setting time can be reduced to a few minutes.
After setting hard Milliput continues to cure and is fully cured after an elapse of time equal to the setting time at the same temperature. Once fully cured Milliput can be machined, drilled, tapped, turned, filed, sawn, sandpapered and painted. Milliput can be sandpapered and painted immediately it has set. (it is advisable to wear eye protection during this process).
Milliput is an excellent adhesive and will bond any of the following to itself or to any of the others - wood, brick, cement, metals, concrete, plastics, glass etc, but note that Milliput is not intended as a thin layer adhesive and should not be used where a paste, mucilage or thin glue is indicated. Milliput will set under water and is heat resistant up to 130°C.
Shelf Life:
We recommend Milliput is stored in cool, dry conditions. Please reseal bags after use. Stored correctly this product should remain workable for about 2 years.
We recommend Milliput is stored in cool, dry conditions. Please reseal bags after use. Stored correctly this product should remain workable for about 2 years.
Black Milliput was introduced in response to user demand and can be used for Repairs to antique clocks, Guttering, Ebonised wood, Marble, Slate, Cast iron, Basalt ceramics and black plastic parts in cars (such as bumpers, small handles, buttons and knobs).
Yellow-Gray Milliput The epoxy putty with a thousand uses in modeling D.I.Y and industry. (Car repairs, military models, Marine craft repairs, household repairs like gutters)Silver Grey Milliput was introduced as slightly finer filler and is widely used for modelmaking, sculpting, taxidermy and for the repair of garden ornaments. (porcelin restoration- dolls & plates, Military Modeling, Domestic Repairs, ).
Superfine White Milliput For the restoration of porcelain and other ceramics for the repair of antiques, objects d'art, Victorian dolls, picture mouldings, etc. For sculpting and modeling. For the repair of white domestic chinaware and for filling scores and dents in white domestic equipment e.g. washing machines, refrigerators, etc. (porcelain restoration- dolls & plates, Military Modeling, Domestic Repairs, ).**It is very important when using this grade of Milliput, because the sticks are virtually the same colour, that you mix the two parts for at least five minutes.**
Terracotta Milliput used for the restoration of terracotta and other ceramics. Also for the repair of garden urns, pots, Statuettes and damaged brickwork, etc. Also for sculpting and modeling. (Earthen wear pots, Quarry Tiles, Statuettes, damaged brickwork)
Use Milliput to add features for realism to models and figures or to customize. |
A "Cool" Tip!
If you are interrupted while you are mixing Milliput, you can put the Milliput into a deep freezer until you can get back to work. This will keep the product at approximately the same state of setting at which it was frozen for up to 36 hours. Simply remove the now frozen product from the freezer and warm in the hand and it is ready to use. If stored immediately on mixing it retains its sticky nature.
Milliput crusting cure
Tom Sime - Epoxy 101
There are differences between brands of epoxy putties but they all have very similar properties.
Tom Sime - Epoxy 101
There are differences between brands of epoxy putties but they all have very similar properties.
I have used Milliput, AB as well as Magic Sculpt and if Milliput is used, as a “base line” AB is a little firmer in texture and Magic Sculpt is a little softer as well as having a surface “sheen” that (I find) makes judging depth a little more difficult than with Milliput.
One of the big problems when you purchase Milliput is that you don’t know how old it is. The darker stick has a tendency to “crusting” on its outside surface if its kept in storage for to long. If this is not dealt with then when you mix the two components you will have small pieces of the crust in the mix that will not cure properly as the Milliput hardens.
The cure for crusting is as follows-
1) Warm an oven to 200 Centigrade/Celsius.
2) Place the encrusted stick on a piece of foil and put into warm oven.
3) Make a cup of coffee/tea and drink it. This should take you 20 minutes.
4) After 20 Minutes carefully remove HOT Milliput from oven remembering that its HOT and STICKIE and if you touch it will STICK to YOU and BURN.
5) Allow the Milliput to cool till it is warm to the touch (don’t let it go cold) and you can handle it without burning yourself.
6) Now simply mix it well with itself thoroughly, this will take at least 3-5 minutes.
When the mix cools completely you will find that the lumps have been reconstituted and are no longer a problem.
All epoxy putties change in consistency between mixing and curing. At the time of mixing epoxies are soft and pliable, as time passes they tend to firm up and are less easy to work with sculpting tools. This knowledge can be used to your advantage.
Putty that is freshly mixed is soft and therefore ideal for sculpting and shaping with dental tools, toothpicks and homemade tools designed to meet your personal needs. I use Milliput for figure sculpting and use a selection of various sized needles that have been epoxy glued into the handles of old paintbrushes. A paintbrush moistened with a little water can be used as an aid to sculpting, blending and smoothing out the surface of whatever you creating.
Putty that is no longer soft and malleable need not be discarded. If it has started to firm up it is perfect for rolling out and being cut and shaped for clothing, tarps, blankets, bedrolls etc. To roll out the putty simply dust it with a little talc place it on a flat surface and use piece of dowel/plastic rod to roll it out. Use a moist paintbrush to remove the talc before “fastening” into its final place.
There are few things more satisfying than creating your own sculpture/conversion. I hope the forgone helps you to do just this.
There are few things more satisfying than creating your own sculpture/conversion. I hope the forgone helps you to do just this.
Another customer adds - A quicker method that I use is to place the "crusty" one on a glass dish and microwave on full power for approximately 10 seconds (depends on m/w output), then mix with itself. just remember it is HOT when it comes out of the micro.
The info in this article is from Milliput.com & Tom Sime a customer
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Martes, Hunyo 14, 2016
Trackside Signals
My trackside signals are finally complete! When I purchased the little trackside signal face plates and matching LED lights off eBay for about $8.00 last year, I thought I was being really thrifty, which I was, however I then realized that I was now faced with the responsibility of having to make the light standards to hold these signals. Wiring was not an issue as I had incorporated these into my main wiring system, but I now had to find a way to make them look at least somewhat realistic on my layout.
To build the light standards, I went to my local hobby shop and visited the Evergreen Models styrene plastic display. Evergreen makes bulk styrene strips in almost every shape and size imaginable, which is great for these types of projects. I used 7/16” tubing for the mast, which is a little larger than most prototypical-sized masts, but this is the smallest size that would allow me to run the 8 wires through for the dual signals. I then cut notches in the tops of each mast to allow the signals to fit into them.
I then used slightly larger tubing that allowed the 3/16” tubing to fit snugly inside for the base support, as well as around the base of each signal to act as a support. The mast and support where then glued to a 1/16” base. I glued small rectangular pieces of thin styrene on the sides of each signal. This created a smooth transition from the signal to the mast. A second, smaller piece of styrene was then glued to that, simulating a maintenance door. I use poly-filler to fill in any gaps, and to smooth out any really rough edges.
The maintenance ladders were all hand made using .04" styrene strips. I carefully cut every rung to the exact size I needed, then carefully glued them to one of the side supports. I did this on a flat surface to ensure the rungs were all aligned with the support and were all level and square. Once dry, I glued on the other support. Once dry, I glued them directly to the signal units.
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