1955 HBS Track Plan

From the HBS Real Estate Report, 1955 in collection of author.

Enlarged view of HBS Yard

This track plan is kind of buried in the HBS Report, so I thought I would post here for Bruce, Mark and all the folks following their Hoboken Shore layout construction at Railroad Line Forums. The enlarged view shows the location of the double slip switches in the conversation. There is a nice post on page three of that thread which has images of a brochure probably from the 60s.

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Awesome pics video from yesterday and TBT August 25th 2016

Yesterday, My two sons and I headed due north up to my favorite hobby shop:
Mainline Hobby

It's a long drive but always worth it.  As usual, we do some railfanning along the way.  The Maryland Midland interchanges in the area of the hobby shop which is located in Blue Ridge Summit, PA.  The name is where I got my name for my HO empire.  I've been coming up here for 15 years and one of the first time I did, I stumbled upon the Maryland Midland.  The paint has changed recently but they represented what I wanted in a railroad.  I railfanned them alot over the years and knew the line like the palm of my hand. We lucked out as we found them in Thurmont, MD as we were heading up.  The chase was on once I saw this lashup!:

FIVE Emds on the head end?  Must have a big train.  Turns out that it had 54 loaded cement cars and 2 boxcars for the run up the Catoctin Mountains.

2006 lashup

2016 lashup

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Traffic Lights Part I

The same day I was putting the final touches on my Northern Light & Power kit, my little box full of green, yellow, and red 2mm LEDs arrived in my mailbox from eBay, thus kicking-off the start of my next project: traffic lights! I have two ‘T’ intersections on my layout’s road system, both of which I wanted to be controlled with traffic lights. I wasn’t satisfied with many of the commercially-available light systems that are available in my area, as most were un-realistic and far out of scale, not to mention expensive. The ones I did like however, wouldn’t fit correctly on my roads as I had built them slightly too narrow.

Faced with the issue of cost and adaptability, I decided to attempt my hand at building my own traffic lights. I had previously built my own trackside signals (see here), so I figured traffic lights would be quite similar, even though I wanted to build these a bit more to a prototypical scale size then the trackside signals. My model street lights are based on a common North American style with a curved light standard which holds the traffic lights horizontally over each controlled lane of traffic.

I started by cutting the face plate for each traffic light from thin styrene sheet, then carefully drilled 3 – 2mm holes in each face plate, spacing each hole 1/8” apart (center to center). For the lens shades, I used a single hole punch to punch out round pieces from very thin styrene. I cut the styrene disk back 2mm from its edge, trimmed each pointy edge, and shaped each piece by gently rolling it between my fingers until it had the correct curve to fit over each LED. I was able to make 2 shades from each styrene disk. I then glued 3 of these directly above each hole on the face plate.

I masked the backside of each face plate, and sprayed the front flat back, figuring that it would probably be easier to paint these prior to installing the lights. I masked the back side to prevent paint from getting on this area, which would need to be removed anyways when it came to gluing the LEDs to the face plate. I then counted out 6 LEDs in each colour (red, yellow, green) and tested each one with a resistor and power supply to ensure each one worked.

For the light standards, I used 3/32” diameter copper tubing, which I cut into 4” sections. I cut the sections at 4” so I had extra length to insert into the pilot holes in my layout when it comes to installing these. I needed to thread 4 wire leads through each, so the wires needed to be quite thin. I found an old computer hard drive ATA cable, which is comprised of several dozen very thin insulated wires, so I cut this up and saved the wire leads. I then threaded 4 wires through each copper tube, one for the green, yellow, red LEDs, and common ground. There were only 3 colours of wire however (red, blue, and white), so I just used a second white, marking it with a black sharpie for use as the common connection.

Once the wire leads were threaded through each copper tube, I bent the top of each tube to an almost 90 degree angle about 1” from the one end. I bent the curve over a thick marker container to keep the curve uniform and round. It’s also very important to make sure that the wire leads are pre-installed in the copper tubes, as the tube needs the internal support when bending. Without the wire leads inside, the copper tube would simply collapse and kink.

By this time, the paint on the front of the face plates had dried, and it was time to install the LEDs. I first cut off the long connectors to each LED with flush cutters, leaving only a small portion protruding from the back of each LED. I then glued each LED with CA to the back of the face plates, making sure the anode (+) connection on each LED was on the top position. You can distinguish what side is the anode connection on most LEDs from the curved profile on the base of the LED itself. The cathode (-) side is flat and squared off, and the actual connection lead itself is usually shorter than the anode.

Now for the fun part; soldering the connections to the LEDs. I used a small cardboard box which I cut a notch into for the front of the faceplate to fit into for support. The common (-) connection was the first one that I made. For this, I used one of the metal leads that I had originally cut off of the LEDs, spanning it across and soldering it to all three cathode connections on the LEDs.

For the controlled (+) connections, I carefully soldered each wire lead from the copper tube supports to the anode on each LED. I soldered the red wire to the red LED, the blank white wire to the yellow, and the blue one to the greed LED for each traffic light. The other white wire, which I previously marked with a black sharpie, was soldered to one end of the common connection. When soldering the wires, I made a point of positioning each wire so it would easily exit off to one side of the traffic light (the side facing the support column). This made the back of each street light look a lot less cluttered and easy to work with.

Once all connections were made, I gently and carefully (and I stress the gentle part), pulled the wire leads at the base of the copper tube supports, slowly bringing each traffic light closer to the support column. After I had positioned each traffic light right up against the copper tube supports, I adjusted each light so it was positioned level to the ground when positioned upright. The wires provided enough rigidity that no glue was required to fasten the lights to the support column. I then painted the back side of each light, including the connections and face plate, with 3-5 coats of black enamel paint, making sure I put on enough coats that no light was visible from the back of the traffic lights when lit.

The final step was to paint the copper support columns an aluminum colour, for which I used Humbrol metallic aluminum enamel. With the traffic lights now complete, they only now need to be installed and connected to a traffic light controller on my layout. I am currently exploring a couple of options for controllers, including building my own. That will all however be in my Traffic Lights – Part II post, which will hopefully be up sometime this summer. For now, I will return back to my current task of building more trees.

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An HO Layout In Progress

This layout is by Tyler who works at our South store.

• The Thompson River Snow Sheds in HO
  
  
  This is a project that has been sitting in the back of my mind for too long. I wanted to do some rugged mountain modeling with cliff faces that would be impressive to look at. I was too short on space to create a floor to ceiling mountain range but I knew some compromise could be found. I also knew there had to be grade built into my plan in order to avoid the mountains blocking my previous scenery. To do this I had to settle on a rather steep down grade to drop six inches below my current track level. A four percent is what it came out to be. Such a steep grade means helper service which just added to the appeal of this project.
  
  
  The snow sheds along the Thompson River are an iconic sight for the few remaining passenger trains that follow the route along the CN line. One of those trains is the Rocky Mountaineer which can just barely span the series of tunnels and sheds. They have taken a brilliant panoramic shot of their train spanning those sheds which I have been using to get my version as close to the real one as possible (see figure 1).
  
  
  
  
  
                       Figure 1- Basic foam mountain faces with Rocky Mountaineer panorama in the back ground. Panoramic photo source: Rocky Mountaineer [1].
  
  
  
  
  
  
  For me there was no time to waste in beginning this project, I did up a quick drawing of the proposed route and began construction (see figure 2). The benchwork was really just a simple shelf design, nothing pretty as the mountains will overhang and the skirting will cover the rest. I won’t go into any particulars about how I constructed the benchwork but rather I will lean towards the scenery techniques used through this series of blogs. 
  
  
  
  
  
                Figure 2- Plan for the Thompson River route along current layout.
  
  
  
  
  With the benchwork complete, I went straight cutting some basic mountain faces from foam. The foam I used was salvaged from a roof repair, unfortunately for me this foam was fiberglass based and I was left with some irritated hands after avoiding the use of gloves. The foam itself did a great job though and being several inches thick it didn’t take long to build up the six inches of mountain face I was able to have. I tried to keep the foam carving rough to make the future plaster work as easy as possible. This is where a hot wire cutter (and some better foam) would come in very handy as it would keep the mess down and allow you to be even more creative with how you cut the foam. For the tunnels I drew an approximate track center line along the table top and used a tri-level auto-rack to make sure I had sufficient clearance through the tunnels. An NMRA gauge is also a good tool for this, however be careful as it won’t properly gauge the overhang around a tight curve. With the pieces of foam fully cut out (see figure 3), I secured them to the layout with a generous amount of hot glue (however I left the tops of the tunnel sections off until the track has been secured). There are certainly stronger glues you could use but I haven’t had any issues with hot glue, especially when the track work isn’t relying on the rigidity of the foam. If you are laying your track on a foam base I would strongly advise a glue which will cover the entire surface between the layout and the foam. It should also have enough flexibility to hold up to any flex and movement the layout may be put through.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

          Figure 3- Basic foam design of the tunnels.

  
  
  
  
  
  
  Once the foam was finished, I began laying cork roadbed along the entire length of my Thompson river route. You could use foam roadbed which I’ve done it in the past, however I have grown to prefer the rigidity of cork and I feel it will keep the track level and aligned better than the foam will (with a 4% grade even the smallest of issues could be dangerous). To secure the road bed I used contact cement which provides a quick yet strong hold. I used Atlas code 83 cement tie flex track for the entire route. The concrete ties are prototypical to that portion of the CN line and has a very contemporary look which fits my modern layout well. To secure the track I used a very hot glue gun. It must be “very hot” to avoid any lumps if the glue has cooled before the track was properly laid. The hot glue is again quick which was important to me (being an engineering student, time is always at a premium). I soldered every rail joint to ensure good electrical connection, operational reliability, and realism because the prototype has welded rail meaning there should be minimal “click-clack.” 
  
  
  This project has been a lot of fun so far and I look forward to its completion along with every other step along the way. Hopefully I have inspired some of you to tackle that mountain railroading project you’ve been imagining. With some careful planning it doesn’t have to take up much space and in return it will cost you less in plaster. With the next blog I will begin the task of creating snow sheds and tunnel portals, as well as begin the plaster rock-work and show some other little details I have been adding. Lastly I would like to say that while I am modeling a prototype location and wish to be as accurate as possible, I don’t mind missing a few details along the way, it’s the big picture that I’m aiming for. So if I have misinterpreted any facts along the way I apologize and would be very interested in hearing about how it should really be from you guys. I will likely even change what I’ve done if it’ll help make this project as realistic as possible. 
  
  
  Disclaimer:
  
  [1] Rocky Mountaineer Rail Tours owns the panorama seen in the photo, this is not my own image. Rocky Mountaineer (Copyright 2011).
  
  This is Tyler's Layout. He works at our South store and is part of the FREE-MO group. Please feel free to come down to our South store to talk to him, Jesse, John or Rob; at our North store Ross, Leigh or Ken.

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