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Linggo, Setyembre 25, 2016

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Martes, Abril 12, 2016

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Linggo, Pebrero 7, 2016

Walthers Merchants Row I



The weather this September was even nicer then it was in July and August, and to be honest, it was difficult to stay indoors to do any work on my layout, especially in the basement which has not even one window. Even with the beautiful weather, I still managed to find some time to finally tackle and complete my Walther’s Merchants Row I kit.
Walthers Merchant’s Row

I received this kit as a Christmas gift last year from a friend, and finally pulled it out of the box about 2 months ago. I started by constructing the basic shell; the 4 walls and 2 doors, leaving the roof and window glazing off to more easily paint the walls. I finalized my paint schemes before I started painting, comparing colours on paper to ensure they didn’t clash with each other. I then started painting; small section by small section.
Masking Walthers Merchant’s Row 1 building for painting

This structure has lots of detailed sections and components, all on one common piece of styrene. I found (at least for myself) that you need two basic skills to successfully paint this: patience and masking tape. After painting each section, I made sure it was completely dry before painting the next. This ensured that overlapping colours did not bleed together, and that I didn’t accidently put my fingers in wet paint while painting a different section. Masking tape was also essential for straight, crisp lines. I don’t have a very steady hand, so painting a straight edge freehand is almost impossible for me.
Masking Walthers Merchant’s Row 1 windows for paintingPainting Merchant’s Row 1 almost complete

I used a hobby knife to cut small pieces of masking tape for almost all straight edges, using a small flat jeweler’s screwdriver to push the masking tape hard to reach areas. This came in especially handy when painting the window frames (as seen above). The extra time it took to mask and allow the paint to dry really made the difference in the end, not to mention how it made up for the shortfalls in my free-hand painting skills.
Back side of Merchant’s Row 1 kitLeft side of Merchant’s Row 1 kit
 
Once the basic structure was painted, I used a white wash on the red brick sections to highlight the bricks, then sprayed the entire model with Testors Dull Coat. I then used clear styrene for the window glazing. For the blinds, I used Google image search to find several different types of blinds, then shrunk them down in Adobe Photo Shop to the sizes I needed. I then printed the blinds out on a colour printer, and cut them out as needed. I then glued them to the back of the clear styrene windows.
Printed window blinds on 8x10 photo paperBlind assortment on 8” x 10” matt photo paper

CLICK THE IMAGE ABOVE FOR A HIGH RESOLUTION VERSION OF THE BLIND TEMPLATE THAT YOU CAN PRINT AND USE FOR YOUR OWN WINDOWS
I wanted do a couple interior scenes just for fun, as well as add some interior lighting. I was posed with 2 issues however. The first was that I did not want to light every window in the structure, and second was that I needed to divide up the interior, as the kit has so many windows that it looked unrealistic when you looked in a window at one end and could see all the way through to the other end!
Interior styrene walls of Merchant’s Row 1 buildingInterior styrene walls of Merchant’s Row 1 building

To divide the structure into interior rooms, I first cut a base from a bulk sheet of styrene which fit perfectly inside the structure to act as the floor. I then made interior walls with styrene, gluing them to the base. I made sure that the building’s shell slid easily over this interior “unit”, ensuring that the interior walls didn’t rub against the exterior shell. I built the interior as a removable insert so I could more easily work on the interior scenes and lighting, both now and in the future.
Merchant’s Row 1 kit furnished interiorAntique Shop furnishings

I used cardstock from a craft store for the flooring and walls, mimicking carpet and wood flooring, and painted and wallpapered walls. I put a large piece of cardstock towards the back of the interior unit, reaching all the way up to the roof, blocking out all light from reaching the rear windows of the building. For the second floor, I built individual small rooms from a combination of styrene and card stock which I then glued directly to the inside of the outer shell. For the rooms I wanted lit, I simply cut a small doorway opening to allow light in, and for the ones I wanted dark, I just left them sealed.
Barber Shop furnishingsEmerald Café Shop furnishings

The interior scenes are furnished mostly with painted accessories from a Model Power interior accessories kit. I printed small photographs and paintings I found online on a colour printer then cut them out and glued them to the walls to represent full sized artwork. For the grocery and clothing storefronts, I built small photo holders from styrene, and glued these behind the windows. I then took images of real storefronts, re-sized them, and printed on a colour printer. I then cut them out and inserted them into these small holders behind the window glazing. I now have storefronts that look like they have real window displays. You can read full instructions on this method in this month’s Model Railroader magazine (October, 2011).
Styrene plastic light diffuser boxStyrene plastic light diffuser box


Styrene plastic light diffuser box

Lighting the unit is achieved by a light box that I built out of styrene. It is lit with 3 small 12 volt incandescent bulbs, and is painted black on the top, back, and sides so light only glows from the front and bottom. The box sits snugly in a slot I left in the building above the main floor walls and behind the second floor rooms. Light from the bottom of the light box lights all of the main level consistently, while the light glowing from the front of the light box lights the top level rooms through the small doorways. I opted to use a light box as the styrene diffuses the light evenly and reduces harsh shadows. The incandescent bulbs are preferred over LED’s as they have a warm, yellow glow (which is difficult to replicate with LED’s), even though incandescent bulbs are not as efficient and give off lots of heat.
Merchant’s Row Kit with light boxSecond level furnishings with light diffuser


Second level furnishings with light diffuserInterior rooms with light box

I finished the model with dry transfer decals from Woodland Scenics; transferred directly to the window gazing as well as signs included with the Merchant’s row kit. The “Mitch’s Antiques” and “T&B Clothing” signs, as well as the coke product logos were all printed on photo paper, then cut and glued to the structure/signs. The final product turned out pretty good, or at least as good as I wanted it to. I took my time on this one, and I think it paid off!
Walthers Merchant’s Row 1 KitWalthers Merchant’s Row 1 Kit


Backside of completed building – Lilly’s Pleasure PalaceLit Merchant’s Row kit


Emerald Café lit upStorefront at night


Walthers Merchant’s RowWalthers Merchant’s Row

I’ve now started working on a Walther’s White Tower kit, which I plan on building as a bank (possibly). The cold, fall weather is definitely here, and summer is officially gone. Time to start working again in my basement on my actual layout!

Linggo, Enero 31, 2016

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Sabado, Nobyembre 28, 2015

Walthers White Tower Restaurant


I recently completed my Walther’s White Tower Restaurant kit, which I completed in just a couple days, opposed to my last 2 structures which took over a month! I know the kit is a lot simpler then my last 2 structures, however as my skills get better, so does the time that it takes to complete them.

Walthers White Castle kit

Like my Merchant’s Row I kit, this one needed a lot of masking. The kit calls for white exterior walls and silver trim, but I decided to change this. I first sprayed the walls with Testor’s light aircraft gray paint. Once dry, I started carefully masking the exterior trim by cutting very small pieces of masking tape and smoothing it down with a small flat head jeweler’s screwdriver. I then hand painted the trim a dark gray.

Interior lighting connectionsScratch built White Castle interior

I scratch built the entire interior, including the tables, benches, and counters, all from styrene. The black and white tile flooring is just a print out on plain printer paper of a pattern I made in Photoshop. For lighting, I used a small 12v automotive bulb that I attached to the top corner of the kitchen walls. I hid the leads behind the kitchen walls so they were out of sight, and have them exiting the building out of the rear base.

Back side of White Castle kitWalthers White Castle kit

Just like I did for my Merchant’s Row I kit, the exterior of the building simply slides over the interior, making for very easy access to the inside lighting/furniture in case anything ever needs to be fixed, changed, or added. I did not use the window glazing that was included in this kit, as it was very poor quality and opaque. I instead used clear styrene from Evergreen.

Walthers White Castle kitWhite Castle kit with awning supports

The window awnings were designed in Photoshop and printed on printer paper. I then cut the awnings out and glued them to a thin strip of styrene. I drilled small holes with a thumb drill into the exterior walls, and shaped supports out of thin steel wire, which then slid into the holes. I then glued the awnings to the supports and exterior wall.

Interior furnishings with lightingWhite Castle kit at night

The decals used were included with the kit; however I did some slight modifications. The “White Castle Hamburgers” decals also had “5 cents” and “buy a bagful!” in the design, but I opted to not include these as it made the signs look too cluttered. For the decals, I first applied a gloss coat to the structure, and added the decal once the gloss coat was dry. The decal was then covered with a second gloss coat. This was to reduce the visibility of the glossy decal backing. I then sprayed the entire structure with dull coat to get rid of any luster.

Atlas Telephone Pole and Shanty kit

I also did this small Atlas Telephone Shanty kit at the same time, which I purchased for $0.99 at a hobby clearance store in Calgary last month.

Huwebes, Nobyembre 13, 2014

HO Model Review Walthers Mainline 4650 CF Cylindrical Grain Hopper


Okay, time to get back to something actually model railroading-related. I hope to have more HO-themed articles in the next few weeks and less 1:1 scale posts, not that there's anything wrong with real-world railroading, but the intent for this blog was to be primarily about 1:87 scale railroading. Progress on the layout and various HO locomotive projects has been slow, but I have a lot of things "nearing completion" I hope to feature in the near future.

Walthers' recent Mainline-series release, the so-called 59' Clindrical Grain Car, produced in droves in prototype by Marine Industries.


Anyway, with the relatively-recent release of Walther's so-called 59' grain hopper, I was keenly interested to get my hands on one and see what the model would be like. No doubt this would car would have a tough act to follow in that Intermountain has cranked out models of the same prototype for years. Walthers' Mainline series is their budget-minded line of less-detailed but more affordable products (such as it is today with prices subject to fluctuations in both the US and Canadian dollars), so admittedly, expectations weren't that high to begin with. This is not intended to be a A-Z review, but rather a narrative describing things Walthers got right and things they got wrong. 

The first thing I noticed about the car was the price - retail is $29.98 US, which works out to about $40 CAD, plus tax. For a budget car, that's a bit steep, especially when the far better-detailed Intermountain version of the same car can still be found without much difficulty at train shows for $30 or less (same paint schemes, too). The car comes well-packed in a somewhat-larger-than-necessary box with a plastic two-piece shell holding the car in place. One thing that was known when the model was announced was that it would come with plastic "end cage" (roofwalk supports and grab irons) detail, and plastic roofwalk. While this does solve the common problem of etched-metal roofwalk warp, the trade-off is a noticeably-thicker profile. Admittedly, if you view the car at a 90-degree angle, it's not too bad, definitely better than the old Athearn blue-box details, but as soon as one sees the car at an angle, it's easy to see just how thick the "engineering plastic" is - pretty thick. On the B-end, the brake dear is present and reasonably-well done, but the plumbing connecting the brake components again suffers from chunky-plastic syndrome. That trait further extends to the grab irons and stirrup steps. One thing done fairly well (among others) is that the top hatches are relatively well-detailed, and apparently more reliable than the Intermountain version (I can't seem to keep those hatches in their hinges). Another thing done fairly well are the brackets supporting the roofwalk along the length of the car. The car comes equipped with Walthers free-running 100-ton trucks and Kadee-like metal couplers. Early tests indicate that the Walthers version of the car doesn't suffer from the common problem the Intermountain cars faced wherein the the inboard wheelsets on each truck contact the brake piping detail underneath the car, sometimes leading to derailments. 

A side view of the car reveals a noticeable gap between the side sill and the hopper sheets, most prominent at the middle of the car.


A couple flaws, at least on this particular sample, serve to detract from the car's overall appearance. The first and more obvious, there is a noticeable gap in the seam between the car's side sill and the hopper sheets. It appears that Walthers chose to cast these as separate pieces, and the fit-up between the two leaves a bit to be desired (and would likely be difficult to correct). The second issue is with the graphics; while generally well-executed, a few spots had fuzzy or even blurry contrast between the two colours, most notable between the yellow and brown, but also between brown and black at the BL-corner of the car. A further, more subtle detail, is that the prototype car has 9 weld seams between the hopper sheets, while the model has 12; again, this is not a rivet-counter's car, but is something that could have been accounted for at the factory prior to production. 
Note the fuzzy colour separation, particularly at lower right between yellow/black, yellow/brown, and at the stirrup step, between black and brown.

At anything but a straight-on view, it's hard to overlook how thick the engineering-plastic components are, particularly the brake piping and handrails between end ladders. Also note that the crossover running board is void of any texture.

A top-down view of the roofwalks illustrates the size and coarse nature of the roowalk grid pattern.


In short:

Pro's:

  • It closely matches prototype dimensions (well, it is a scale model...)
  • Tracks well
  • Some elements are well-executed such as top hatches and roofwalk supports
  • Lettering is generally sharp
Cons:
  • Sloppy fit-up results in gap between side sill and hopper sheets
  • No way to hide how thick the plastic components are, such as roofwalk, end cage details
  • Sloppy paint application in several places
  • Wrong number of hopper sheet weld seams
  • For what it is, relatively high price

This isn't meant to be a knock against Walthers - in truth, they have done some incredibly well-executed models such as the 52' bulkhead flatcar. In this case though, I'm not sure what they were aiming for, offering a middle-of-the-road model that has already been done in much better quality, for nearly the same price (there is a price difference between a new Intermountain version and the Walthers', but not what I'd expect given the detail differences). Aside from being a rerun, the execution of the model leaves a fair bit to be desired in several areas, so it appears that Walthers was intent on offering "something" to the budget-minded modelling crowd, but may have only been interested so long as profit margins allowed. While the poor fit-up and paint may be exclusive to this single sample (doubt it), the fact is that other areas such as the roofwalk are hard to overlook. As food-for-thought, Scale Trains recently, with their Operator line, offered an entirely new model (never before made in HO) with better execution and at a substantially lower price; thus it is possible to do a budget car well. 

Verdict: I'm sticking to my Intermountain version. 

Hope this review helps some potential buyers,

'Til next time,
Cheers,
Peter.