Decal Tips

Our Staff has complied some Decal Setting Tips:

There are so many ways to decal, almost as many ways as there are decals!

Here is one of the easiest:

 - do a light spray coat of the same finish as the decal (gloss for glossed decal, matte for matte decal) let dry.

 - apply waterslide decal and position, let it dry then apply decal set to get the decal to snuggle into place.

 - when dry, clear cote with your desired look (matte, gloss, satin, etc.)
 

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here is one recipe for getting a decal to lay down flat and stick.

 

1.  Use fresh decals.  After a year, or more, the film dries out and cracks and tears. 

 

2.  Apply over a good coat of paint. 

 

3.  While dry (before wetting)  cut the individual decals loose from the main sheet with a small pair of scissors.   Trim the decal closely, removing as much excess decal film as possible.  Trim all the corners round to prevent a loose corner from lifting up.

 

4.  Soak decals one by one in water, in a saucer.  The decal paper may curl, wait for it to flatten (after a few seconds),  lift decal and paper backing from the water. Carefully slide the decal off the backing paper and lay flat in the proper place.
* The decal adhesive is water  soluble. If you leave the decal in the water too long the adhesive washes away and then the decal won't stick.  *

 The decal film may want to stick to your finger and wrap itself up like a pretzel.  Don't let it, you will never get it straightened out again.  Steer the 

decal film to the proper place and get it square and centered.  A small paint brush or a needle or the point of a #11 Xacto knife all work to steer the decal.  Blot up excess water with a Kleenex.  Too much water and the decal will swim away from it's proper spot.  Let it dry long enough to stick in place. 

 

5.  Apply decal setting solution.  We carry Walther's Solvaset  & Microscale's - Micro Sol.  The setting solution is mostly formaldehyde which softens the decal film and lets it settle down around

 surface details- like rivets.  DO NOT attempt to move a decal after applying the setting solution, the decal softens 

so much that it will tear.  Let dry over night.

 

6.  After decals are good and dry, spray a coat of DullCote over it to make the decal film blend in. (Testor's DullCote). 

 

These tips are our opinions and they work for us. They may or may not work to your satisfaction.

Product Tip:

Here is Microscale's description for each product:

 

"Micro Set is a very versatile decal setting solution that does several things to the Microscale Decals to improve application. Micro Set should be applied to the surface of the model where you will be sliding off the decal. This prepares the surface with special wetting agents that cuts the oils in new paint and converts the adhesive on the back of the decal to a stronger and more lasting one. And finally, Micro Set slightly softens the decals film to make it more flexible so that it can conform better 

to the model's surface. Better adhesion by the decal to the model prevents tiny air bells from occurring and results in an invisible carrier film or the so called 'painted on look'. "

 

"Micro Sol setting solution is for the most difficult irregular surfaces you find on models. It completely softens the  Decal allowing it to drape down onto the surface of the model conforming perfectly and without distortion. You can get the most amazing results in seemingly impossible places, because Micro Sol actually makes the decal part of the paint. For that reason you should coat Micro Sol on for only a few seconds and then leave it alone, it does the work. Do not touch until dry as the decal is very soft at this stage and could be easily damaged. "

~~There are many different products to use with decals, these are the ones our guys like to use. If you have a different suggestion or something to add, we would love to hear it!
Valerie

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Mondays layout work and decal completion

Spent a lot of time yesterday completing my large decaling job and finally tackling the trackage from Battlefield Yard (BY) to the helix.  A few posts ago, my main two objectives for the summer were to change the trackage on the Mine Run branch and take out the S curve to the helix from BY.  I completed the Mine Run trackage last week.   I hesitatated on the S curve replacement but decided to get into for some reason late yesterday afternoon.  The job turned out pretty easy and everything went better than expected.  The good thing about these projects is that I had everything I needed.  Track was reused and I did get down to my last rail joiner and track nails!  I'm hoping not to need anymore.  Nothing is worse than starting a project and needing a piece of track or other vital part.  I don't have any hobby shops around so most will be mail order.  So on to pics:

Decaling jobs:

A new sand hopper based on Greg McComas 's Michigan Interstate RR.  These will be in captive service hauling sand on the Midland.  The rust pits are decals by Weathering Solutions.  Still needs weathering.  

A VMID woodchip hopper.  The load was easily made with foam and sawdust.   

The Midland has good size fleet of stone hoppers now.  Here is VMID #6 Ex-SP.

Here is some new power on the Midland, GP35R #233.  This loco served the Virginia Central for the last several years and was recently bought by the VMID.  The patch job is typical for shortlines and turned out quite well.  Can you see my BN theme?  BN was my favorite railroad as a teen.  

Improved Trackage to the Helix:

The reason why the trackage had to be improved is because there a small S- curve leading towards the helix.  This is a busy piece of track and with the scenery in, was no fun having a derailment there.  Most cars and 4 axle locos were fine through it.  My longer 6 axle locos did not like it.  The main reason why I've added a SD50 is to work the grade on the helix.  So a change was needed.

Here is the S curve.  All I did was move the crossing in the wall to the right and straighten out the curve.  

Track removed and the hole in the wall enlarged.  Had to take out some scenery but have a plan on what to put here already.   Could not go any farther right because of a stud in the wall. 

Wow, why didn't I do this first time?  No curve now!

My only casuality, my signal.  I unattached it from the ground but for some reason it doesn't lit up now.  If this is the case, it will be the 2nd signal to bite the dust here.

A view from the helix side.  Definitely a easier job than I originally thought.

 I finished late last night after several breaks.  Still have a couple of things to sort out but a major improvement.  The SD50 already loves it!

 

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